Stair parrs suppliers, and "finishing" oak

[ClockPie]

Hi

Will be replacing handrail/baserail and spindles of our starts and will be using Oak.

Stair Parts Direct and Jacksons Woodturners come out roughly the same price, with the former having our preferred choice of spindle.

Any recommendations to use or avoid any of them? Seem to be established, but not many reviews I can find?

Also - what is the best "finish" for the Oak handrail? We have oak worktops (Ruskins Danish Oiled) and oak floor (Woca oil) - so is one of those suitable? Ruskins perhaps? Or is laquring the way forward for handrails? If so, any recommended product (as never used laquer before)

Thanks

 

[ClockPie]

Well in case anyone googles in the future

We used Stair Parts Direct in the end, and everything was ordered and well packed. The newel caps were the wrong size, and 2 spindles weren't perfect (me being Mr Pedantic). Both swapped hassle free and correct size caps sent.

Overall - great service, great price, great product. We're happy

 

[Ian H]

Pics of your stairs?

 

[ClockPie]

Pics of your stairs?

I've got an album with the entire project in the following link

https://photos.app.goo.gl/wpOFtdqctaYNUKT13

The stairs don't comply with modern regs (original 1933 era) so hence they are untouched. The newels are also impossible to change without major work, hence kept them. What you can't see is they are not vertical in any plane and are slightly rotated (!) - probably with age. So it was a **** cutting and fitting the new. The bannisters were cheap pine, not original, and very badly fitted as you can see by the pre photos. So bad the posts didn't fit into the old bannister groove so were bodged. The "indent" for the handrail didn't align either! I had to keep that - it appears they "widened" the landing by a couple of planks to move the bannisters over in order to get a door at the end of the landing. No choice but to keep it, but made it bigger and matched the rail angle.

Note its the first ever bannisters I've even considered doing (!)

 

[Ian H]

Very nice!! My favourite bit is the little triangle door at the bottom, nice touch

 

[ClockPie]

Very nice!! My favourite bit is the little triangle door at the bottom, nice touch

Thanks

I wasn't going to bother but the wife asked. And as I try and get her involved I have to take note of her request! We had some unused extra shelves so they "lined" it out ok but getting it in there AFTER the other units were built!! Grr. If only she said before. The hinge was a PITA as the "corner" clashed on the edge trim and it had to lift it away to clear. Thank goodness a Toolstation AND Screwfix in 0.5 miles!

 

[Ian H]

Have you done anything like that before?

I just tiled my hall and need to do something similar with the handrail.

 

[ClockPie]

Have you done anything like that before?

I just tiled my hall and need to do something similar with the handrail.

Nope. First time ever.

I'm an "OK" DIYer - I don't have the skills or attention to detail of "experts". I'm getting better at the "last bit" covering up the naff bits along the way so it looks better than it is! I'm also OK at thinking about stuff and engineering ways to do it that cope with my skills.

Used zipbolts to fit - they were OK. And lots of testing of angles on offcuts. I've an OK compound sliding mitre saw (essential), so lots of practicing and testing first. As this house is wonky anyway, its never simple. Bought spare splindles to test, and made a jig to make them all look the same then cut. As I needed >45' it was a bigger pain (old house, new pitch regs don't apply). Used new fine blades, new nailgun, and some other new bits (hence cupbords needed to store the tools! Catch 22)

It was fairly tough but not too bad. Worst case you buy another bit.

 

[Ian H]

You sound like me

I'll have a go at mine, the tiles look ok and I wasn't looking forward to that but I do prefer a bit of woodwork so will hopefully get it somewhere close to your standard.
You can just about make out the stairs there:

 

[ClockPie]

I wasn't allowed UFH in the hall lol - and TBH with the wood and bit of insulation it isn't really needed.
And in our place, forget the spirit level!! The floor dips 20mm across the hall width (!)
If you can do the UFH that neat, you will be fine! I used a matt in the kitchen and it wasn't as neat as your cables!

edit: PS - "my standard" isn't that high - honest!!!

 

[Ian H]

I wasn't allowed UFH in the hall lol -

I wasn't alowed not to have it

 

[nabby68]

Hi Clockpie I’ve just posted for some advice on something very similar to what you have done. How come you didn’t change the newels?

 

[ClockPie]

Hi Clockpie I’ve just posted for some advice on something very similar to what you have done. How come you didn’t change the newels?

They are only 70mm x 70mm so too small to cut off and mount a new newel top (I checked with manufacture and they said 90x90 was the minimum to mount a new Newell top. Otherwise would not be strong enough. So would've needed to replace the whole post but that would be a major job and, frankly for a hall, not worth it for us.

 

[nabby68]

Ok good point. Unfortunately I need to replace my full newels so I’m looking for any advice on how to tackle that

 

[ClockPie]

Ok good point. Unfortunately I need to replace my full newels so I’m looking for any advice on how to tackle that

Good luck! For us it would be major work and due to the safety aspect, may not've been tempted. Stairs don't comply with regs whatsoever (1930s) so didn't want to rock the boat and "change the stairs" in any way. (Taking newels out, fixing/modifying string etc may be a step to far).