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Steps into garage side door

Discussion in 'Building' started by Mattatooi, 3 Jul 2017.

  1. Mattatooi

    Mattatooi

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    Ok so after removing the old failed step footing I have now got concrete footing in place for steps.

    [​IMG]

    Removing the form wood tomorrow. Going to be making steps like so;

    [​IMG]


    Will be my first bricklaying job. What could possibly go wrong? :)

    Just had a few quick questions!

    - I worked out I will need 49 bricks. Lets say 50. Is there a way to work out approx how much sand and cement i will need for this? I will also add plastiscer.

    - For the tops, I have read somewhere you need to add something else to the cement to ensure it sticks properly on top? Anyone advice what?

    - Sketchup doesnt show, but I will be having 2 slabs on each step with a gap in middle. Can i just point this with cement or the same mix of the above? Is it best to add the slab tops after the bricks have tried is it ok to whack it on there and then?

    - And finally any tips on how to keep it all square etc?

    Thanks in advance!
     
    Last edited: 4 Jul 2017
  2. oldbutnotdead

    oldbutnotdead

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    How long has the concrete been down- it looks a bit fresh. Best leave it (and keep watering it if it is hot down your way) for 7 days before working on it.

    There's loads of online brick/sand/mortar calculators online, here's one http://source4me.co.uk/calculate_brick_block_mortar.php

    Are you supporting the slabs front and back?- if not then it would be a really good idea. Doesn't need solid back support, a brick in the back at the middle where the slabs join will do it (if you're using 50mm pavement type slabs. The thinner ones are weaker & really need full support).

    Bed and point the slabs with the same mix you use for the brickwork. Again, if you're using the 50mm slabs I'd give the wall 24 hours. If using thin ones then bang them on, it'll be fine.

    Set your corners first- use a setsquare from your existing wall outwards so you get 90 degree parallel sides- then fill in the rest. For that size job I'd use a straight edge, wouldn't faff with string on the short edges. Long edge- stakes and string will be best bet to get line and level, don't get paranoid about having each course perfect unless it'll annoy you looking at it in the future.
     
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  4. Mattatooi

    Mattatooi

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    Pic was yesterday morning after it was just done. Yeah under them slabs i am putting support at the backs. I was also planning on filling the voids with some stones? would some leftover aggregate do the job, or any other type of stones better? The tops slabs are inch and a half I believe. Width is 900mm. Each will be 450 wide ish. So one join in middle. I had read somewhere about needing to add something to the mix, to stop the slabs springing up over time? Maybe I misread.

    Thanks
     
  5. oldbutnotdead

    oldbutnotdead

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    Back support and hardcore fill will be fine for 38mm, best leave 24 hours for the wall to go off before chucking the hardcore in and tamping it (or the bricks will probably splay out, which would be a shame). If the slabs are supported on all sides then they're going nowhere- you might get problems if the slabs overhang the support walls at the front edge (where all the load is)
     
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  7. Mattatooi

    Mattatooi

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    Cool thanks. Chucking it down today so looks like be doing it tomorrow.
     
  8. DIYnot Local

    DIYnot Local

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