Stopcock. 2 taps on same feed, the 1st needs replacing rough cost?

[sparkyshark]

Hi All,

Please tell me its not going to cost an arm and a leg to get this replaced (london). The 1st stop cock is leaking and its causing a small flood in the kitchen Its leaking from the tap section (the bit you turn off/on for flow). I've given it a 'tap' with a hammer and its stopped leaking for now.

I have had a look outside and I can see a water cock stop, but it appears to be a shared one. So not sure if I need to call thameswater to get them to turn it off, before I get a plumber in. The pipe feed appears to be lead.

I'm also thinking we may as well replace both stopcocks at the same time to avoid any future issues which makes sense.

No insurance I'm afraid - never claimed for 15 years so I thought I'd save some money for a change...

Cheers all!
Sparky

 

[Gas2Air]

The 2nd tap is an easy fix. The bottom one far more difficult. Don't know what you mean by tapping it and stopping the leak. I'd prepare £150-£190 for the 2nd tap fix.

 

[Newboy]

top stockcock leaking or bottom one - they both appear to be dripping

Don't hit them with a hammer! (that's your plumber's job)

 

[it's not that hard]

The top stopcock is leaking from the gland nut,which is the first nut by the handle,this can be repaired without turning off the water, undo the nut,wind PTFE tape around the spindle get a small screwdriver and push the tape in deep where the nut screws in and screw back up,don't know about the bottom stopcock if it's leaking or not,if it's not just leave it.

 

[it's not that hard]

The top stopcock is leaking from the gland nut,which is the first nut by the handle,this can be repaired without turning off the water, undo the nut,wind PTFE tape around the spindle get a small screwdriver and push the tape in deep where the nut screws in and screw back up,don't know about the bottom stopcock if it's leaking or not,if it's not just leave it.

 

[Madrab]

Top tap was probably put in when the bottom one was getting dodgy to allow the mains to be turned off without upsetting the old lower one, given the PTFE tape. They've been leaking a long time, damp is getting bad. If it was me I'd recommend they are both replaced for a more suitable setup. Outside mains would need to be turned off.

Get a good plumber in to do a quick survey including the outside mains and give you a quote. He'll advise if outside needs to be dealt with by the supplier.

What is the earth is connected to?

 

[sparkyshark]

Its definitely the one at the bottom that is leaking. I can't see that tap being saved and its going to have to be replaced. I agree whoever installed the top tap (before our time at the house), must have installed it so not to interfere with the the original. I had a new kitchen floor laid and now this happens!

I literally got a hammer and did a minor tap on the handle (mate said try it) and it's stopped the leak for now....

Okay I'll call a couple of plumbers and see what they both say and just go with the one with a fixed quote to replace both taps.

Thanks all.
Sparky

 

[Madrab]

Just keep your fingers crossed that the plumber has experience of copper tailed lead. Needs to perform some cleaning up of the bottom coupler 1st with all that corrosion/scale to make it easy to pop the nut and not twist the tail out of the lead.

How far away is the outside main? Is it worthwhile thinking about replacing the lead back to the outside valve?

 

[vinn]

Before touching anything else go outside and find the external shut-off and operate it to isolate the water, confirm the water is off, and then, if you want to make a DIY repair do whatever is recommended above.
You could also use a copper x lead Lead-Loc fitting if you cut the lead supply pipe just below where its wiped on.
Dont mess with the internal stop-cocks unless you are certain that the water is isolated.

But you are probably wasting your money on a repair, replacing the bottom stop-cock will require using a Lead-Loc fitting- sod's law says that now you've had problems more will quickly follow.

You have a 1/2" lead pipe water supply, and it should be changed to a 25mm or 32mm MDPE pipe feeding in to connect at a new 22mm internal stop-cock.

 

[Nige F]

Let us know how much the London Boys want to fix both . I have a feeling ( in me water ) that old ( lower ) stopcock could have a union nut @ the bottom with a brass tail that's wiped into the lead. You could scratch it clean and see if it's golden colour ( brass ) or copper. Looks like you'll have to cut away some of the cabinet base to get enough room for a lead-lok . I'd try getting the old (lower) stopcock out and then strip it and seal the gland, cut the crutch head off, take the jumper out and replace it so it just sits on the pipe doing nowt, but not leaking or likely to in future.

 

[Madrab]

replacing the bottom stop-cock will require using a Lead-Loc fitting

That lead main has a copper tail in it, hence the wiped end on the pie. Just need to take care when loosening the bottom coupler in case it's corroded onto the copper tail after x number of years of carp, it is possible to twist the tail out of the lead.

 

[vinn]

And maybe risk another, different, leak after disturbing the old arrangements. Maybe a weeping leak that wouldn't show for a month or two.
I'd cut out all the old and replace with new. The major repair difficulty doing it my way might be, if no slack was available, gaining access on the other side of the unit wall.

 

[sparkyshark]

Checked the outside stopcock. It has a water meter in it + a tap. Turned it off and it reduced the flow considerably but not totally cut the flow off.

The mains is just to far and we'd have to redecorate everything.

The sink cabinet is going to be a major issue!

Some fresh images.

I'll let you know what happens....

 

[Newboy]

Are you certain it's not just the top stopcock dripping through the gland nut?

 

[Madrab]

That's bit easier to see....reckon that nut will go with a bit of work, chap just needs to be careful that's all. Bit of a wire brush and eased back 'n' fwd.
The mains tap, is it a 1/4 turn to off or a wind down? might just need worked a bit too.