Stopping pesky leaks on new compression fittings?

I also tighten to squeak point. The worse that can happen is you strip the thread. But if it leaks you were going to need to replace anyway.

Make sure you don’t squash the pipe when you cut it and open the end up a bit with the stabby spear shaped thing at the end of your pipe cutter.
 
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I also tighten to squeak point. The worse that can happen is you strip the thread. But if it leaks you were going to need to replace anyway.

Make sure you don’t squash the pipe when you cut it and open the end up a bit with the stabby spear shaped thing at the end of your pipe cutter.
Stabby spear shaped thing :ROFLMAO: Wouldn`t be the deburrer by any chance ;) (Probably been another long hot day for you).
 
I've got one of those go round and round and round cutter disc thinggies, need stabby thing - check lol


I also tighten to squeak point. The worse that can happen is you strip the thread. But if it leaks you were going to need to replace anyway.

Make sure you don’t squash the pipe when you cut it and open the end up a bit with the stabby spear shaped thing at the end of your pipe cutter.
 
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Ah ok, the next fitting I won't bother with the tape, what manufacturer do you pros use for fittings? Eventually, I'm going to head to soldering.. but have way too much to do as it is :(

Mate there are so many "Bad" video`s out there made by amateurs for their 15minutes of fame.
 
Don't think the squeak point are the threads BTW, it's when the olive is biting against the fluted mating point on the nut. I use that as the bite point where the two surfaces are matching shape, providing the seal.
 
I did a load of compression fittings 10 years ago with no issues, did some las year and it was a nightmare!.

I had some old 15mm pipe offcuts and the pipe was notably thicker (wall thicness) than the new pipe. I also think copper olives are better but not readily available bundled with the compression fittings.

I resorted to fit and crimp, then unscrew the fitting and wrap the olive in PTFE and final fit and tighten. Pipe was brand new, cleaned and deburred.

Considering going over to solder joints if I have to do any more plumbing, could use the Rothenberg torch for unseizing bolts as well so a good investment!.
 
I`m thinking that photo is staged, I`ve worked with oil and water fittings and can`t recall one where the pipe goes right through the fitting on a T.
 
If you have one or two that leak out of say 20 then that's just sod's law.

If you're getting 15 out of 20 leaking then the problem lies at the other end of the spanners! :)
 
Is soldering relativity easy to do? I've done circuit boards in the past, but realise they bear no resemblance to a bit of copper (y)

I've been looking at the normal irons, or the torches, I'm assuming a mini torch will be the best option as tight corners and the temperature etc?

If the pipes are dry to start. You really want to solder them.
 
Buy Yorkshire fittings, a gas torch either one that connects to a camping bottle or has its own, some flux, some wire wool and basically keep the fire off the joint, but on the pipe so that it only cooks off when the fitting is hot enough. I personally add an extra dollop of solder when its melted out.

wire wool the jointing ends and inside of the fitting.
spread flux on the contact points.

 

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