Strimmer thread getting lost inside head

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I've bought my first petrol strimmer, with a bump head spool.

A couple of times, I've ended up with all the line breaking off and the end going inside the head... So I have to remove and open it.

The problem is I can't see how much line there is when it's running or that the bump head is working unless I bump then let it stop to check, which is really slow.

Is this just a lack of good technique... Can anyone offer tips on best use of a bump head? Should I be tapping it every few seconds or what?

Thanks
 
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Its only necessary to bump the head when the line is getting too short, naturally enough, and there should be a sharp edge on the guard which cuts the line if it gets too long. Make sure the guard is positioned so the flying line actually makes contact with the blade.
Your problem may just be a poor quality line at the end of the day, a replacement may solve things.....presumably the machine manual states what diameter line to use?
To operate the bump correctly, rev the machine up and when the revs are dying, bump the head on the grass firmly but gently, keeping the head level with the ground if possible.
John :)
 
It could be the line I guess... it was working well then suddenly the whole thing seemed to snap off. I fixed it and almost immediately the same happened again :(

The issue I have as a novice is if I'm strimming a largish area I don't want to keep stopping to check the length sticking out. Maybe it's just a matter of practice to get a feel for my strimmer better.
 
I find it best to strim from right to left and use 2.4mm line, which I find works well. It's a Honda machine and I can't say I've had any particular issues......interested to hear how you get on!
John :)
 
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I use 2.4 mm string made by Stihl in 2 strimmers which were designed for 2mm string. Works a treat and hardly ever breaks
 
Apparently mine is designed for 2.4mm but as it is powerful enough to drive a blade and chainsaw I'm wondering if 3mm might be better? What difference does it make and are there cases where thicker isn't better?
 
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Just because it can run a blade is no guarantee it will be happy with 3mm line . . I have for many years used 2.4mm metal core nylon line which hardly ever breaks and I use my strimmers beyond extreme...
litl
 
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I'd stick with the recommended diameter line......heavier line can throw itself out of the spool, thanks to its own weight and that extra force sometimes tightens the line inside the spool so that it doesn't pay out on the bump. I tend to spray my line refill with some silicone lube......no idea if it makes any difference though :whistle:
John :)
 
The problem is I can't see how much line there is when it's running or that the bump head is working unless I bump then let it stop to check, which is really slow.

Is this just a lack of good technique... Can anyone offer tips on best use of a bump head? Should I be tapping it every few seconds or what?

Thanks

I would say that rather than a thicker line you just need a better line and some more practice.

A little more use and a bit of experience will help with knowing how long your line is without stopping the head.
I know that on my machines they rev noticeably faster as the line gets shorter.
You'll also find that when strimming grass you can see the size of the swept path of the line and how far away from the head it is making contact. These two things will help you judge when it needs a bump and you won't need to stop and check it.
Strim from right to left and it clears the debris out of the way as it goes so you can see what its doing easier.

As mentioned by someone else, when you bump the line out the excess should be cut off by the guard. You'll feel and hear the line being cut so if you bump it and that doesn't happen, bump it again. If you've bumped it three times and haven't heard it cut the line then either you've not identified that sound yet, or it isn't feeding the line out (like if you've wound the spool the wrong way, or its snagged for example). Stop and check the line situation.

I use standard round 2.4mm Oregon nylon line most of the time for just grass, but if I'm going to be smashing through some nettles and brambles etc then I go for the Duoline that's pictured above. That is very tough and wears much slower than the plain nylon line. It is more expensive, but it lasts much, much longer. If just using it on grass I find I can sometimes go half an hour between bumping out the line with it. If you aren't paying attention it will cut through plastic plant pots, mark the bark on trees, and damage all sorts of things though, especially if running at 100% on the strimmer, so some care required with it (as with all line really though).

Also be aware that you don't need full throttle all the time, especially against concrete etc where it will just wear the line much faster than if you used half throttle which will cut the grass just as well, albeit a little slower.
I find that with it running quite slowly I can also get it to 'pull' grass out from when its growing through chainlink fencing

Put in a bit of time to practice and experiment with technique and some decent experience with the machine will allow you to get the best out of it.

Hopefully some of that load of waffle helped someone.
 
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Not that I am recommending it but my philosophy is maximum productivity so I remove the lower skirt of the guard that has the cut off blade attached .
This lets the cord come out further than normal giving a much wider cut but slows the revs if one over does it.
If the revs die, gradually move the head closer to a wall or large abrasive object until the cord wears to a point where the revs pick up to a point where the engine sounds comfortable. I run my Strimmers mostly flat out except , as the excellent post by Mark10
points out ,when strimming around fences,loose objects.
litl
 
Having flicked up a stone and smashed the lower section of a double glazed toughened and leaded door I wouldn't recommend removing guards. It hurts enough when the stones hit your legs.
 

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