Stud framework, how would you approach this

[kevinsmbuk]

I need to build a flat wall across this wall (so covering the chimney breast etc..

Would you overboard all the artex which still means building some studwork in the recesses and also make door lining wider. Or, would you build stuck work in the recessed area but inset the plasterboard, tape the joins with the artex and skim the lot?

 

[Ian H]

I would inset it to save on space.

 

[23vc]

I’d stud out the inset bit, board over the whole lot by dabbing over the artex and screwing the same boards to the stud work, and add a bit of 19mm square to the door lining to bring it out. Just insetting it and skimming over the artex I reckon could crack around the join eventually even if taped.

 

[kevinsmbuk]

I’d stud out the inset bit, board over the whole lot by dabbing over the artex and screwing the same boards to the stud work, and add a bit of 19mm square to the door lining to bring it out. Just insetting it and skimming over the artex I reckon could crack around the join eventually even if taped.

Yeah exactly what I was thinking. Especially with the doors potentially being slammed. Im thinking go down this route and offset with a smaller width bit of board to start then a full board going half over artex and have over studwork.

Couple questions, would I need to bring the studwork out slightly as the artex bit will be dot and dab? (never done that before)

Also what so you mean by add a bit of 19mm square to the door lining?

 

[dontbelieveawordofit]

for the sake of keeping the door frame looking natural id recess it. and bonding coat the brickwork.
take the high spots off the artex and scrim and blue grit it all before skimming.

 

[23vc]

Yeah I’d bring it out by about half an inch assuming artex is fairly straight, you can be pretty flexible on dab depth.
door lining = tack small section stripwood to it, to increase its depth to line up with the finished skim or thereabouts
Benny do you not reckon it might crack where studwork meets masonry then? Whatever works. Guess I just prefer skimming boards than artex

 

[dontbelieveawordofit]

Yeah I’d bring it out by about half an inch assuming artex is fairly straight, you can be pretty flexible on dab depth.
door lining = tack small section stripwood to it, to increase its depth to line up with the finished skim or thereabouts
Benny do you not reckon it might crack where studwork meets masonry then? Whatever works. Guess I just prefer skimming boards than artex

shouldn’t crack, providing its all prepped properly . both solutions will work , although your version is probably less work and more straight forward for diy purpose.

 

[kevinsmbuk]

I've got no issues bonding and skimming myself, so if both you think that's a better option. I can double scrim the joints too. To be fair that would actually be easier for mean as it means I don't have to pick up plasterboard sheets

 

[kevinsmbuk]

Just looked at the skimming and taping route multiple issues.

1. The brickwork to artex is about 20mm depth, then obv you have the tip of the artex so add on another 10mm ish, seems like alot of bonding? Brick pillars holding lower lintel also sit proud of the wall.

2. There is a couple of vents that need to have plasterboard cut then joints scrimed.

3. The fireplace area needs alot of work, prob foam, bonding to sides, actual opening needs boarding up and taping.

I'm really thankful for both your opinions, but surely it seems like overboarding to the depth of the most forward point (brick pillars holding lintel), skimming and replacing door lining is the best bet?

 

[23vc]

Yeah it is. I already said that’s what I would do. And benny also said that was your easiest option so crack on

 

[dontbelieveawordofit]

go with what you feel most confident with. you can get 6x3 boards if it helps .
you don’t have to hump 8x4s about.

 

[kevinsmbuk]

Studwork ready and radiator pipes have been moved. Slow but getting there! Now ready to board, can't imagine it's going to be easy to fix a full board to studwork and dot and dab the bottom at the same time?

My friend told me that in order to bring out the door lining I could cut behind the door stop to split the wood, then simply move it forward to match the new depth then use the door stop to cover the gap. Do you think that would work?

 

[23vc]

It will be really easy to dab and screw at the same time, just make sure you don’t push the dabbed bits in too far so you can’t level it up.
Don’t understand what you mean about the door lining. Easiest option is to just tack on a small strip of wood to bring it approx level with the finished skim.

 

[kevinsmbuk]

It will be really easy to dab and screw at the same time, just make sure you don’t push the dabbed bits in too far so you can’t level it up.
Don’t understand what you mean about the door lining. Easiest option is to just tack on a small strip of wood to bring it approx level with the finished skim.

I think I've screwed up a bit as the studwork is flush with the start of the artex, not the peaks. So surely if I affix the boards at the bottom and screw into the studwork at the top it will crack the board as its pulling it in too much?

 

[23vc]

Yeah, cut some strips of pboard to bring the studs out a bit. Or move them if that’s less work