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Stud wall?????

Would it be normal to have some kind of insulation in the stud wall?
If the stud wall divides a room with a w/c from another habitable room (but not the bedroom it’s in if an en-suite) then you must have min 25mm mineral wool sound insulation & the plasterboard must be either Wallboard 10 or Soundblock (not ordinary wallboard). Otherwise it’s not compulsory so it’s up to you; personally if it’s dividing bedrooms then I would sound insulate anyway.
 
It seperates an upstairs bendroom from the bathroom, so i presume that i will need to insulate the wall with mineral wool, is that just the same stuff you insulate the loft with?
 
Yes you will have to sound insulate; I did use 50mm cavity bats, it’s a bit of a grey area & our Building Inspector didn't have a problem with it but it may be worth a phone call to your LABC &, as I said, do not use ordinary wallboard, use Wallboard 10 or Soundblock.

Is this a refurbishment or are you forming a new bathroom? If it’s a new room with new drainage connections then I assume your aware that it’s notifyable work & should be inspected?
 
No im not forming a new bathroom, just making it slightly bigger, the previous owner had left about a foot next to the chimney breast in the bedroom, which creates a small alcove which wont even fit a vac in and looks stupid, so initially it was for cosmetic reasons and i was just going to batton out the alcove when i had the bedroom skimmed, however we need a new bathroom and currently its like a corridor, so an extra foot width and a lower cladded ceiling will make it much more asthetically pleasing.

I will be moving the plumming around in the bathroom, and probably replacing the wastes that are already in situ, but that will be about it?
 
Sounds OK on the drainage side, just make sure things in are accordance with Part H & manufacturers design guides; depending on who did the work & how long ago, it may not be! Does the room currently have an extractor fan?
 
Current regulations require a fan in new or refurbished bathrooms; you can DIY but it gets a bit complcated with notification & inspection & by far the easiest route is to get one wired by a Part P registered spark (you will need to produce a compliance certificate in the future) even if you do the mechanical installation yourself.
 

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