stud walls with 135 angle

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I've been struggling with how to make a 135 angle in a stud wall...

If I consider there to be 2 separate walls and simply choose my angle and connect them together then the plasterboard on the outside will be floating for about an inch on both walls and I'll have trouble nailing on a corner bead. If I end the plasterboard flush with one of the walls, then the boards of the second wall wont butt up together neatly...

Is there a trick to this or am I being too fussy?
 
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But you could cut a 22.5º mitre on the two end studs. Are you intending using a flexible corner bead to plaster to.

There is an edge beading available to fit 9.5 & 12.5 plasterboard, You can put this type bead on the board before fitting it. If you use this method you wont need to mitre the studs.
 
Have you seen the adhesive corner beading? screwfix and the like do it in rolls - not used it myself, but seen it used to good effect....

The other thought i had would be cut "wedges", noggins cut to fit in the gap, then mark where they are on the first bit of plaster board, and nail a standard 135 angle bead over the lot to finish.

Note that the edging bead mentioned has a raised edge on the end to allow for the thickness of plaster, not sure how this would look with two meeting at that angle - but not saying it's bad advise or wouldn't work!
 
Have you seen the adhesive corner beading? screwfix and the like do it in rolls - not used it myself, but seen it used to good effect....

Note that the edging bead mentioned has a raised edge on the end to allow for the thickness of plaster, not sure how this would look with two meeting at that angle - but not saying it's bad advise or wouldn't work!

It would work the same way as any corner bead i.e. give a reinforced edge where as the type you are suggesting would give less protection. This type of paper backed beading is designed mainly for dry lining only i.e. when not applying a skim coat of pink plaster, that’s not saying it can’t be used in conjunction with pink plaster.

This guide may be of some interest also.
 
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Thanks for your replies.

The mitred studs sounds like the professional way and would solve my studwork dilemma but I don't have the equipment to do it and I doubt I could do that with a handsaw.

I didn't realise you could get 135 angle beads, I 'll look out for those, but still wouldn't have anything to nail them to unless I mitred the studs.

I think I'll try the tape option, I've not seen that before. Thanks.
 
This beading dosent need nailing, you just fit it over the edge of the board, before you fix the board in postion.
 
Do you mean attach one or two beads?

If I use one, then I wont have a strong joint so will be likely to crack and if I use two then when they butt together at that angle there will be a gap of about 10mm showing between the edges as the inside of the beads will touch first (I think?)...do you need to fill that with plaster and have two corner beads showing?
 
Edging bead is what is says "edging", not "corner". it is used mainly where the edge of the plasterboard will be exposed at the edge, near a door for example.
If you already have this type then you could use one, and put a chamfer on the second sheet of plasterboard with a rasp.

I suspect that if you use two and try to fill the gap with plaster it will at least crack, and maybe fall out if it takes a knock.

If you don't already have these beads, have a look at:HERE

Most decent merchants should be able to get it, if they don't stock it.

if you use this type, you should mitre some noggins to fit behind the boards, can be done with a hand saw, and screwed in to fit., just use the offcuts of the timber used to make the studs. it'll end up much stronger, and less prone to cracking than the other method.
 

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