Switch Options for Low Voltage Lights

[Do_it_later]

Hi folks,

I have a kit of 3x20w low voltage lights and transformer which I will be installing as under-unit lights in the kitchen. No switch on kit. Power supply will be via a socket located in the cupboard above the cooker hood, (also supplies said hood). I want to be able to switch the lights on and off without having to reach up and open this cupboard, my wife will need a chair to stand on !

Any ideas on types of switch I can use, running cable etc. I know I have to switch on the high voltage side.

Also - units are traditional timber built - not laminate/chipboard, is there any risk from the heat out of the back of these lights (surface mounted).

Many thanks.

Andy

 

[securespark]

If the fittings are suited to mounting on a normally flammable surface, they will be F marked - an F inside an inverted triangle.

If not, they should not be mounted on such a surface - read the instructions and ring the mfr if in any doubt.

As for the supply, fit a fused spur adjacent to the socket, feeding the lights via a lightswitch. You will find wiring diagrams in the For Reference post at the top of the list.

 

[Do_it_later]

Thanks SS, I'll check for the symbol as suggested.

Unfortunately, the cooker hood socket is already a spur (from the cooker control). I like the idea of a proper wall light switch though. I've read enough posts on the limitations of spurs (fused or otherwise !! ) Is there such a thing as a 2 gang fitting where one side is a socket and the other is an FCU (that I could run to the light switch)?

 

[jenki]

Hi, you might want to look at grid switches, you can get a fused unit like this -> http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MKK4890.html, then i don't see why you cannot switch the live in a standard switch - maybe somebody else can confirm this is ok

 

[Do_it_later]

Thanks,

Never used grid switches - do they take a single power cable in, then distribute it to each switch (via separate fuses if required) ?

So I'd have a grid switch panel with 3 units - Aower to the hood through a fuse unit (1) then a switch unit (2), and B: a separate fuse unit (3) feeding a 10A wall switch and then to the LV transformer ?

Appreciate the advice.

I've read some more posts and am now concerned that my spur may be run from the CCU in 2.5mm cable and not fused - do I need to rewire it ?

I'll check everything over tonight.

Cheers.

Andy

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Thanks,

Never used grid switches - do they take a single power cable in, then distribute it to each switch (via separate fuses if required) ?

No - each module is just like a non-grid system, i.e. a fuse has 2 terminals, a 1-way switch has 2 terminals, a 2-way switch has 3 terminals etc. I've always assumed that they are called "grid" systems because in larger configs the modules mount on plates which have a grid layout:

So I'd have a grid switch panel with 3 units - Aower to the hood through a fuse unit (1) then a switch unit (2), and B: a separate fuse unit (3) feeding a 10A wall switch and then to the LV transformer ?

Why not a 4-module plate with both switches and both fuses? (BTW - put the switches before the fuses, not after, then if it blows you can isolate the fuseholder before replacing.)

I've read some more posts and am now concerned that my spur may be run from the CCU in 2.5mm cable and not fused - do I need to rewire it ?

It would be best.

 

[jenki]

Power supply will be via a socket located in the cupboard above the cooker hood, (also supplies said hood). I want to be able to switch the lights on and off without having to reach up and open this cupboard, my wife will need a chair to stand on !

I was thinking of a 2 module grid, both with fused spurs, 1 for the Hood, the second to power the lights, you could then add a switch down the line in a more suitable position.
but as B-A-S suggested, if you were to make it a 4 way grid you could switch both fused spurs, (so as to isolate them) and then fit a switch in a more convenient place for the lights

 

[Do_it_later]

Thanks All,

Firstly - under unit lights do have the F mark so I am reassured in surface mounting them, so thanks for that. In the (very basic) leaflet, it does say "do not hard wire to mains", but I can't see any reason why not as long as I put in appropriate circuit protection and isolation ?

The grid switches look good, and I've done some browsing on the net about them, it may prove to be the best option but the overall cost for the units and the modules will be quite high for something which will be hidden away, I'm also still not sure about the number of spurs - remember the power supply available is a single spur socket. As one of my objectives is to minimise the number of sockets, switches, fcu's etc that I will have to fit into the tiled splashback above the worktops, I wouldn't really want the grid or separate switched FCU there either. I was hoping to utilise the one available spurred socket and only have one light switch on the splashback, or an architrave switch in the (solid wood) units somewhere.

I've done a wiring diagram for a proposed layout and I would really appreciate an opinion on it. I don't want to stick it in this post in case another diy'r sees it and takes it as a an "approved" layout, particularly if its dodgy.

Is there a temporary area where I could post it and then delete it soon after ? its a 31kb .jpg

Many thanks.

Andy

 

[securespark]

You can have an unlimited number of outlets via a fused spur.

If you replace the outlet fed by the spur cable with a fused spur (13A), then any subsequent outlets can take no more than 13A in total before the spur fuse blows. This way, you can wire any number of outlets on the spur safely.

 

[Do_it_later]

That's a bit clearer - apologies if I've been dim.

So I could have :

A switched FCU {13A} as the spur; supplying 2 further FCUs {5A}, (one supplying the hood and one supplying the LV transformer (via a chocbox and an architrave switch)

Cheers.
PS thanks for the reply on my shower/CU thread as well.

 

[securespark]

No problem.

Would use 3A for lighting/fans.

 

[Do_it_later]

Will do. Many thanks.