Switch or FCU which comes first in a circuit

[gardener1214388]

cancelled

 

[gardener1214388]

cancelled

 

[gardener1214388]

cancelled

 

[gardener1214388]

250 Watt electric towel rail

Is it Class I or Class II? If the former have you thought about the need for supplementary equipotential bonding?

flex through wall to outside of bathroom

Via a flex outlet plate, I hope.

then to ceiling pull switch inside bathroom ideally power supply off loft junction box lighting circuit;

If the cable outside will be buried, have you thought about the rules for concealed cables?

Is the circuit RCD protected?

ring mains power supply not available

... power supply either off a ring mains 2.5mm T/E ...

?

Reason for the 16 amp ceiling pull switch DP with neon is that the trade supplier has not seen and cannot supply any pull switch with a neon with less specn that the 16 amp

Kick him into touch and find a supplier with a better knowledge of what products are out there.

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I have cancelled earlier comments and thanks for the input, below is the situation.

OK, lets start again,

I have a bog standard B&Q 250 Watt chrome plated electric towel rail with its own integral live, neutral and earth cables enclose and hidden away safely via rubber seal and hex screw tight fitting to main frame as per manufacturer's instructions.

I do not want a flex plate in the bathroom only a ceiling pull cord with ideally a light of some sort as indicator when it's on; because without the light/indicator no one knows if its on or not.

The white flex goes immediately from the back and behind the bottom of the element base unit with two inches of flex barely seen; hidden directly behind that element that is in fact a thermostat with knob at the front; the cable goes through; very tightly but with annular clearance to allow it to be passed through the studded wall then up inside a walk in cupboard to a flex plate; all cables are to be hidden in pvc Conduit channel with front clip on cover for easy access and not into any wall or chased and hidden away.
From this flex place via 1.5mm flat grey T/E the cable would go again surface fixed in pvc channel up to the ceiling and over into the loft then down into a ceiling pull switch in the bathroom ceiling that needs some sort of indicator to show if the rail is on or off when the switch is pulled. from the switch 1.5mm flat grey T/E then goes back up into the loft and down again into the cupboard via pvc face fixed channel to a SFCU then up again to the loft to connect to the lighting circuit; 1.5mm T/E to connect to power; I thought that the lighting circuit would do (1.5mm is used to operate 500 watt and security lights in some homes fitted by electricians as standard practice) There is absolutely no risk at all of any moisture of water accessing the horizontal flex from the towel rail into the tiled wall; it looks neater than a large flex plate with metal screws fitted to hold it in position.

Also bearing mind that many if most electricians use only 1mm twin and earth for lighting; I always prefer the 1.5mm T/E.

There is no access to any 2.5mm T/E ring circuit power supply; hence using lighting circuit 1.5mm T/E flat grey via a junction box in the loft.

Although the flex plate and box and SFCU and box are plastic; all earth wires are connected including flying Earth's to the plates of course and also the boxes; i.e. earth connections follow through.

Finally the circuit is connected to the consumer box 30 Ma RCDs the SFCU having a 3 amp fuse fitted.

So, such a simple job it should be; what are your thoughts on the above.

 

[securespark]

I'm confused...why have you deleted all these posts?

 

[JohnW2]

I'm confused...why have you deleted all these posts?

Unintended duplicates, I presume - the infamous forum glitch

Kind Regards, John

 

[ban-all-sheds]

If you have a heater on a pull switch you would like an indication of whether its on or not.

Then use a switch with a mechanical indicator.

 

[AndyPRK]

I've not been following the early part of the thread. I assumes people's beef is that if you have a flag on the pull switch you don't need a second isolator. ? Which makes sense.

Personally I would like a neon rather than having to peer up looking fir a flag for everyday use.

I think some 45a ones have both.

 

[JohnW2]

I've not been following the early part of the thread. I assumes people's beef is that if you have a flag on the pull switch you don't need a second isolator. ? Which makes sense.

It's really simpler than that. The OP was planning to have a separate (additional) DP SFCU, but wanted a functional pull switch which had a visual indication of whether the circuit was on or off. He had assumed that the indicator would be a neon but someone then jumped in and pointed out that a neon was not satisfactory/acceptable for an isolator, and then, in the way of the forum ......

Kind Regards, John

 

[bernardgreen]

Personally I would like a neon rather than having to peer up looking fir a flag for everyday use..

You cannot trust a neon to light hence they must not be used as indication that power has been removed

http://www.intl-lighttech.com/products/light-sources/lamps/neon

Dark Effect: All ILT Neon lamps are subject to a condition called dark effect. Dark affect is defined as a drastic increase in the amount of voltage required to make a lamp glow when the lamp is in a dark environment. Because the lamp is photosensitive, it may require many additional volts to start if no light is present. Neon lamps can also become erratic in total darkness.
To prevent dark affect an external source may be run near the neon lamps or in some cases, custom Neon lamps can be supplied with a radioactive gas, often Krypton 85.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I'm confused...why have you deleted all these posts?

Unintended duplicates, I presume - the infamous forum glitch

No - look at the timestamps.

 

[AndyPRK]

I don't care about safe isolation. I just want to know if my heater had been left on.

Personally I would like a neon rather than having to peer up looking fir a flag for everyday use..

You cannot trust a neon to light hence they must not be used as indication that power has been removed

http://www.intl-lighttech.com/products/light-sources/lamps/neon

Dark Effect: All ILT Neon lamps are subject to a condition called dark effect. Dark affect is defined as a drastic increase in the amount of voltage required to make a lamp glow when the lamp is in a dark environment. Because the lamp is photosensitive, it may require many additional volts to start if no light is present. Neon lamps can also become erratic in total darkness.
To prevent dark affect an external source may be run near the neon lamps or in some cases, custom Neon lamps can be supplied with a radioactive gas, often Krypton 85.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I have a bog standard B&Q 250 Watt chrome plated electric towel rail with its own integral live, neutral and earth cables enclose and hidden away safely via rubber seal and hex screw tight fitting to main frame as per manufacturer's instructions.

It has an earth connection, therefore the body is earthed therefore you need to read up on supplementary equipotential bonding. http://www.google.co.uk/search?q="supplementary+equipotential+bonding"+(17th+OR+2008)+(7671+OR+"wiring+regulations")

I do not want a flex plate in the bathroom

So you're just going to have the flex going through a hole in the wall? That's nasty.

it looks neater than a large flex plate with metal screws fitted to hold it in position.

If you say so.

A hole in a tile will be sharp - how will you protect the flex from damage?

Finally the circuit is connected to the consumer box 30 Ma RCDs the SFCU having a 3 amp fuse fitted.

Why a switched one?

Why do you want a fuse at all?

So, such a simple job it should be; what are your thoughts on the above.

As I said, you need to investigate bonding.

Also, you've not answered the question about the lighting circuit being RCD protected.

http://www.google.co.uk/search?q=rcd+bathrooms+(17th+OR+2008)+(7671+OR+"wiring+regulations")


PS - apologies for the fact that this poxy forum software prevents search URLs from being proper links - you'll have to copy & paste...

 

[AndyPRK]

I'm confused...why have you deleted all these posts?

Unintended duplicates, I presume - the infamous forum glitch

Kind Regards, John

He has actually deleted the content of all his posts in this thread, including the first ! EDIT: except his all new fresh post

 

[bernardgreen]

I don't care about safe isolation. I just want to know if my heater had been left on.

Touch it, if warm it may be on. go back a few minutes later, if cooler then it is off if not check the switch .