cancelled
Switch or FCU which comes first in a circuit
- Thread starter gardener1214388
- Start date
So why have a switched FCU?
FCU first - shouldn't have a 16A switch on a 32A ring final.
What is the appliance?
Maybe do that and not bother with the FCU at all.
250 Watt electric towel rail flex through wall to outside of bathroom then to ceiling pull switch inside bathroom ideally power supply off loft junction box lighting circuit; ring mains power supply not available; need to see a neon in the bathroom switch to see when on and off. Reason for the 16 amp ceiling pull switch DP with neon is that the trade supplier has not seen and cannot supply any pull switch with a neon with less specn that the 16 amp and of course I need to visually see when the towel rail is on or off.
Is it Class I or Class II? If the former have you thought about the need for supplementary equipotential bonding?
Via a flex outlet plate, I hope.
If the cable outside will be buried, have you thought about the rules for concealed cables?
Is the circuit RCD protected?
?
Kick him into touch and find a supplier with a better knowledge of what products are out there.
How much less than 16A were you hoping for? - even many/most ordinary light switches are rated at 10A.
Kind Regards, John
The neon can't be relied upon to indicate if the circuit is isolated - if the switch is required for isolation then a pull switch must have a mechanical on/off flag as well as (or instead of) a neon.
I think he just wants to know if its ON
He probably does - but the life expectancy of neons in electrical accessories is, IME, not necessarily all that long - so it could lie to him
Kind Regards, John
The life of a neon isn't good when they are left on 24/7 but I think the performance would be acceptable for the length of time a towel rail will be on for.
In any case the OP will realise the neon has failed.
In any case the OP will realise the neon has failed.
So - not necessary then.
If you have a heater on a pull switch you would like an indication of whether its on or not.
Precisely - and if the neon is not lit, the OP would not know whether that meant the heater was off - or that the the heater was on, but the neon had failed!
Kind Regards, John
cancelled
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OK, lets start again,
I have a bog standard B&Q 250 Watt chrome plated electric towel rail with its own integral live, neutral and earth cables enclose and hidden away safely via rubber seal and hex screw tight fitting to main frame as per manufacturer's instructions.
I do not want a flex plate in the bathroom only a ceiling pull cord with ideally a light of some sort as indicator when it's on; because without the light/indicator no one knows if its on or not.
The white flex goes immediately from the back and behind the bottom of the element base unit with two inches of flex barely seen; hidden directly behind that element that is in fact a thermostat with knob at the front; the cable goes through; very tightly but with annular clearance to allow it to be passed through the studded wall then up inside a walk in cupboard to a flex plate; all cables are to be hidden in pvc Conduit channel with front clip on cover for easy access and not into any wall or chased and hidden away.
From this flex place via 1.5mm flat grey T/E the cable would go again surface fixed in pvc channel up to the ceiling and over into the loft then down into a ceiling pull switch in the bathroom ceiling that needs some sort of indicator to show if the rail is on or off when the switch is pulled. from the switch 1.5mm flat grey T/E then goes back up into the loft and down again into the cupboard via pvc face fixed channel to a SFCU then up again to the loft to connect to the lighting circuit; 1.5mm T/E to connect to power; I thought that the lighting circuit would do (1.5mm is used to operate 500 watt and security lights in some homes fitted by electricians as standard practice) There is absolutely no risk at all of any moisture of water accessing the horizontal flex from the towel rail into the tiled wall; it looks neater than a large flex plate with metal screws fitted to hold it in position.
Also bearing mind that many if most electricians use only 1mm twin and earth for lighting; I always prefer the 1.5mm T/E.
There is no access to any 2.5mm T/E ring circuit power supply; hence using lighting circuit 1.5mm T/E flat grey via a junction box in the loft.
Although the flex plate and box and SFCU and box are plastic; all earth wires are connected including flying Earth's to the plates of course and also the boxes; i.e. earth connections follow through.
Finally the circuit is connected to the consumer box 30 Ma RCDs the SFCU having a 3 amp fuse fitted.
So, such a simple job it should be; what are your thoughts on the above.
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