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I think possible there is a valve which has been hidden when the garage was made into a flat. But unlikely to find it in a hurry, so looking at improved control.
On a cold day, set wall thermostat to 20ºC in the morning and all works OK, but on a warmer day it over shoots, so on a warm day set it to increase by 0.5ºC every two hours and all works OK, but on a cold day it does not get warm enough.
So considering many methods, these include:-
1) Wait and hope Nest brings out temperature sensors like they have for the USA version.
2) Wait and see if TP-link either Tapo or Kasa bring out a wireless wall thermostat to work with the Kasa TRV head.
3) Fit either Hive or Wiser in parallel with Nest, and move existing programmable TRV heads down to flat and fit new ones in key room.
The boiler cycles on/off, and the return pipe gets hot, but no radiator seems to get a warm return pipe, which makes me think some where the is a by-pass valve I have not found, likely hidden in the walls when garage made into a flat. But to tare down plaster board to find it seems a bit extreme, so lock shield valves wide open, it does work in a way.
I have 5 x eQ-3 programmable TRV heads with blue tooth, 3 x Energenie heats (one smashed by carpet fitters) and one TP-Link Kasa TRV head, the latter seems by far the best, and since I have had it, things have been updated so can now use the Tapo app to control it. Also found the app shows how it has done
this is helpful as it shows when the hall thermostat switched off, Nest shows how long it was switched on every day, 
but not when, it calls it Energy History, but all it says is it asked the boiler to run, but the boiler (oil) cycles on/off/on so not really any relation to energy. However I can see the boiler could have run longer, so low temp not due to boiler not being big enough.
I will likely leave it until weather warms up, so any problems I will have time to sort out, I had thought of moving Nest into the Living room, but to get the 12 volt supply to Living room would not be easy, and want all central heating controls to be either battery or from the single FCU that powers the boiler, main reason is that is battery backed, so if I powered Nest thermostat from USB in a power cut I would loose heating.
System is C Plan with two pumps and two motorised valves wiring diagram here
I had considered a wireless link for DHW but in summer it is powered by the solar panels, so only in winter does the central heating heat it. The flat is hardly used, so want heating to work, but not too worried how well.
This has been on going since I moved in 4 years ago, the wiring was in a state, the boiler was locking out, all that cured, but I clearly made an error with Nest and Energenie which I was told before buying worked together, well they can use same app, but don't work together, Nest Gen 3 was rather a disappointment.
A second wireless thermostat in living room seems favourite. I think main problem is hall cools too slowly, and wall thermostat in the hall. The hall TRV set to 15ºC but at moment showing 16ºC so clearly heat getting in from open doors, that down to kittens scratching at doors if closed, so have a chock to stop it fully closing.
On a cold day, set wall thermostat to 20ºC in the morning and all works OK, but on a warmer day it over shoots, so on a warm day set it to increase by 0.5ºC every two hours and all works OK, but on a cold day it does not get warm enough.
So considering many methods, these include:-
1) Wait and hope Nest brings out temperature sensors like they have for the USA version.
2) Wait and see if TP-link either Tapo or Kasa bring out a wireless wall thermostat to work with the Kasa TRV head.
3) Fit either Hive or Wiser in parallel with Nest, and move existing programmable TRV heads down to flat and fit new ones in key room.
The boiler cycles on/off, and the return pipe gets hot, but no radiator seems to get a warm return pipe, which makes me think some where the is a by-pass valve I have not found, likely hidden in the walls when garage made into a flat. But to tare down plaster board to find it seems a bit extreme, so lock shield valves wide open, it does work in a way.
I have 5 x eQ-3 programmable TRV heads with blue tooth, 3 x Energenie heats (one smashed by carpet fitters) and one TP-Link Kasa TRV head, the latter seems by far the best, and since I have had it, things have been updated so can now use the Tapo app to control it. Also found the app shows how it has done
this is helpful as it shows when the hall thermostat switched off, Nest shows how long it was switched on every day, but not when, it calls it Energy History, but all it says is it asked the boiler to run, but the boiler (oil) cycles on/off/on so not really any relation to energy. However I can see the boiler could have run longer, so low temp not due to boiler not being big enough.I will likely leave it until weather warms up, so any problems I will have time to sort out, I had thought of moving Nest into the Living room, but to get the 12 volt supply to Living room would not be easy, and want all central heating controls to be either battery or from the single FCU that powers the boiler, main reason is that is battery backed, so if I powered Nest thermostat from USB in a power cut I would loose heating.
System is C Plan with two pumps and two motorised valves wiring diagram here
I had considered a wireless link for DHW but in summer it is powered by the solar panels, so only in winter does the central heating heat it. The flat is hardly used, so want heating to work, but not too worried how well.This has been on going since I moved in 4 years ago, the wiring was in a state, the boiler was locking out, all that cured, but I clearly made an error with Nest and Energenie which I was told before buying worked together, well they can use same app, but don't work together, Nest Gen 3 was rather a disappointment.
A second wireless thermostat in living room seems favourite. I think main problem is hall cools too slowly, and wall thermostat in the hall. The hall TRV set to 15ºC but at moment showing 16ºC so clearly heat getting in from open doors, that down to kittens scratching at doors if closed, so have a chock to stop it fully closing.
