Taking worktops out

[chriselevate]

Hi,

I've got to take worktops out but I'm a bit stuck with how to get the bars out underneath the worktops that hold them together. I've got an adjustable spanner but I just can't get to them with that!!! Is there a tool to do it or something? Any advice on it please?

When this is out with it be easy to get out or will the join be strongly super glued together?

Here it is by the way....

Thanks

 

[vards01]

I would use a rachet spanner on there personally to slacken off, then should be able to finger undo the rest as the thread looks pretty clean......then when there's enough slack the bracket should drop out. Maybe even some long nose vice grips would do the trick.

 

[chriselevate]

Brilliant - thanks.

I don't have a decent set of spanners... what do you think to these?

http://www.screwfix.com/p/forge-ste...CpZWBcwgy9twK3B3Z9NQT6KPbjvVxgJ53v!-523957294

Do they look good quality? I don't mind spending money on an investment if they are good and there's a fair few sizes I'm buying... what do you think?

Thanks

 

[UKMICKY]

The nut will come off easy,no need for any special tool.

Once slackened a little you will find it will drop out before your even ready for it to drop

 

[vards01]

I'm not to sure about forge steel quality.....one of screwfix's cheap brands but prob OK for a one off/low use....but you should be able to get on it with a standard ring spanner (as I think UKMICKY was getting at), I just prefer rachet for speed.

 

[chriselevate]

Thanks.

I only have adjustable spanners which won't get into the gap. An investment of a decent set of rachet spanners would be a good thing or you wouldn't bother?

Will the glue between the too tops be tough or easy to break?

Thanks

 

[^woody^]

A 10mm spanner or just loosen it a little with some long-nose pliers, and then spin the nut with your fingers

The joint would normally be siliconed. You can gently pull it apart or run a Stanley blade along it from below - but be careful not to chip the laminate edge

Unless your doing some future regular heavy engineering work, then just get some fung-yip spanners from the market for £2.99

 

[vards01]

Couldn't comment on the glue, but from the image appears no glue residue so assuming none present.

I wouldn't invest 45 quid in a set of spanners you are going to use once tbh. But rachet spanners are really handy for getting in tight spaces, and I use mine lots from mechanics to DIY so could justify the investment.

 

[geraint]

if it was professonally fitted it would not be siliconed but with colourfill....

good luck in breking that seal without damage...

 

[chriselevate]

If I'm going to invest how bigger set would you go for?

Do you need a set of 7 like in the first link I sent

Or is it best going for this set of 12
http://m.screwfix.com/pr-gallery.htm?id=84639#imggal1

Thanks

 

[^woody^]

You can't normally get ratchet spanners in the small space around these bolts

 

[^woody^]

if it was professonally fitted it would not be siliconed but with colourfill....

good luck in breking that seal without damage...

If it was amateurly fitted then colour fill would be used!

A pro joint would not need filling - just a bit of clear silicone to waterproof it

 

[vards01]

I always go for a larger range, as in the future its s*o*d*s law you'll need the size you haven't got!

I have never tried a ratchet spanner in the opening so couldn't give an exact as to whether it def goes in.......

 

[geraint]

if it was professonally fitted it would not be siliconed but with colourfill....

good luck in breking that seal without damage...

If it was amateurly fitted then colour fill would be used!

A pro joint would not need filling - just a bit of clear silicone to waterproof it

rubbish....

 

[chriselevate]

I went out and bought a 12 piece spanner set from screw fix for £9.99 so I'm happy. They seem ok!

I've got the 3 bars out and now pulled the worktop out. Took a fair bit of force but it came out eventually!

Thanks for all your help guys!