Tape & Jointing

7 Mar 2013
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United Kingdom
I've now plasterboarded the stud work and am ready to start thinking about taping and jointing. I'm not planning on having the walls skimmed but decorated once sanded.

I've used T/E boards so should I use webbed tape for these and standard paper for the butt joints?

Should I open up the butt joints with a V before applying the tape to allow the jointing compound to get a better hold?

For internal corners I do have some gaps which are about 6mm to 8mm wide, do a fill with jointing compound before applying the corner tape?

Do you wet the paper tape or apply dry?

There are 2 kinds of corner tape one just plain paper the other with 2 metal strips either side of the fold. Is this any better than standard paper tape.

What should I use on the reveals around doors and windows? Metal or plastic thin wall beading?

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Most people would use "paper" joint tape when taping, although it's a preference. I prefer to use paper myself.
I have never seen anyone open up the butt joints with a V before,,, just apply the joint filler along the joint, bed in the tape, then flatten the tape into the filler and trowel away the excess. You will always get a slight bump on a butt end joint, simply because they are not tapered. The idea is to feather them away with the "joint finish" over a slightly wider area, so as to make them less noticeable. All the joints, corners etc are finished off with "joint finish", than sanded down when dry.
Always fill up gaps, holes etc with "joint filler" NOT joint compound. Always put the tapes on dry, no need to wet them,, and for taping "external" corners of the walls, reveals around windows and doors, use the tape with the 2 metal strips either side of the fold. Put these on with "joint filler" too. There's more to taping than you think, and if it goes pear shaped, you've lost money, so i'd think again if you plan to do it yourself. ;)
Isn't it odd that people think filling and sanding is somehow the easier option than skimming and that there is no skill involved.
Hi noseall, I'm a fairly competent DIYer and I'm certainly not underestimating the job of t&j in front of me. I think I have the skill to do t&j but not sure about a complete skim using plaster. With t&j I can do a bit at a time and take my time. By the way the walling is in a timber framed garden building.

I thought about opening up the butt joints as there are still a few paper edges left standing proud from cutting and sanding the edges when installing.

I also have one tapered joint which had a damaged corner as supplied. Do I knock the damage out and then fill before taping?

I plan to use Gyproc ready mix jointing compound. I was trying to find Easi-Fill ready mix as recommended by people on this and other forums but apparently they do not do it anymore and it appears to be replaced by this product. Having read the instructions it reads exactly like a bag of Easi-Fill, so I'm hoping it's just the same. A friend has used the same stuff and says that it is really easy to sand to a fine finish and taper out.

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Sorry but I don't agree with anything that Roughcaster has said, that's 1950s way of doing it.

I use fibreglass scrim tape, it's a mesh that is self adhesive and about a 100 times stronger than paper (which splits ).

I also fill with the plasterboard adhesive. Wickes is very good and very cheap - about £8 for 25kg.

Do your taping and filling and then use a 1/4 sheet sander for perfect results.
Well Joe, that's you mate, but all the pro tapers i know mostly use paper tape. Go onto youtube and you'll find most of the people on there use paper too. Go and google "mesh tape versus paper tape",,,, the majority seem to favour paper as well. It's all about preference. ;)
I forgot to add that i always put my tapes on, fill gaps/cover screw heads etc with Gyproc joint filler, then finish them off with Gyproc Promix. I know Easifil does the same too. I do use a lot of mesh tape and hessian scrim when plastering, especially on cracks etc in older walls/ceilings, but for taping, i'm a paper guy.:cool:
Having read the various reviews I'll think I'll stick with paper.

My reveals are exactly perfect so would it be better to use PVC thinwall beads? Would they not be stronger than the metal strip /paper to resist knocks?

Paper tears. Fibreglass doesn't. It's your choice though. Just don't knock your joints.
The reason why there is metal strips in the paper corners is to strengthen the corners internal or external that is what dry liners have used for years and even have machines to apply the paper tapes for speed,,!!!It is a different skill from plastering and different materials are used for different applications....

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