Stick a hose on it and run it through, if its not air I'll swap dinners with my dog tonight. 
Testing underfloor heating
- Thread starter Milleniumaire
- Start date
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Underfloor heating really should be on its own separate control zone so that it can work as it needs to without affecting, or being affected by the rads.
Does indeed look like there is air trapped in the loops (rather than the manifolds).
Easily shifted as Rogue states, as long as the installer hasn't kinked or crushed the pipes in the floor.
Does indeed look like there is air trapped in the loops (rather than the manifolds).
Easily shifted as Rogue states, as long as the installer hasn't kinked or crushed the pipes in the floor.
Your problems seem like air locking to me particularly if you haven't filled/purged each loop separately. (Apologies if you have as I haven't reread all the above posts)
On the manifold I recently fitted there are hose connections with valves on each manifold, both flow and return. This enabled each loop to be filled and purged of air with a hose from the cold water supply. No air locking was experienced at all and very little air heard to escape from the auto air vents, also one on each manifold which yours doesn't seem to have.
Is the configuration of the manifolds correct?
Are the flow and return connections from the boiler correct?
Can you refit them with hose connections and airvents by juggling the fittings and their positions?
On the manifold I recently fitted there are hose connections with valves on each manifold, both flow and return. This enabled each loop to be filled and purged of air with a hose from the cold water supply. No air locking was experienced at all and very little air heard to escape from the auto air vents, also one on each manifold which yours doesn't seem to have.
Is the configuration of the manifolds correct?
Are the flow and return connections from the boiler correct?
Can you refit them with hose connections and airvents by juggling the fittings and their positions?
I've been corresponding with Wunda over the last couple of days and they provided me with some instructions on how to bleed the UFH:
To purge air out of the system you must be calling for heat and follow the following steps:
1.Shut down all loops using white manual caps and flow gauges
2.Open up one loop at a time
3.Circulate pump on speed 3 with air vent open
4.Shut down loop and repeat process with next loop
5. Re-set flow gauges
Having followed these steps (twice) it has made no difference. Still no hot water appears to be getting into the pipes and the flow gauges are stuck on zero and won't move.
I've given up and will wait for the plumber who installed the UFH to visit.
Interesting that Wunda also pointed out the UFH should be on a separate zone with its own thermostat so it can be controlled independantly of the rest of the CH. They supplied a fact sheet that clearly states this, so I'll have to take that up with my builder. Based on all this information, I'm not sure why the plumber opted to use my existing weather compensation thermostat, unless it was just easier to install.
To purge air out of the system you must be calling for heat and follow the following steps:
1.Shut down all loops using white manual caps and flow gauges
2.Open up one loop at a time
3.Circulate pump on speed 3 with air vent open
4.Shut down loop and repeat process with next loop
5. Re-set flow gauges
Having followed these steps (twice) it has made no difference. Still no hot water appears to be getting into the pipes and the flow gauges are stuck on zero and won't move.
I've given up and will wait for the plumber who installed the UFH to visit.
Interesting that Wunda also pointed out the UFH should be on a separate zone with its own thermostat so it can be controlled independantly of the rest of the CH. They supplied a fact sheet that clearly states this, so I'll have to take that up with my builder. Based on all this information, I'm not sure why the plumber opted to use my existing weather compensation thermostat, unless it was just easier to install.
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Tipper, to answer your questions:
The configuration of the manifolds appears to be correct as are the flow and return connections. Wunda didn't see any issues with the photos or the description I gave them.
The system (see photo) does have an "auto" air vent (whatever this is), which I recently unscrewed and heard a little air escaping but not much, even after following Wunda's directions on purging the air. See top right of the photo.
View media item 80579
The configuration of the manifolds appears to be correct as are the flow and return connections. Wunda didn't see any issues with the photos or the description I gave them.
The system (see photo) does have an "auto" air vent (whatever this is), which I recently unscrewed and heard a little air escaping but not much, even after following Wunda's directions on purging the air. See top right of the photo.
View media item 80579
It needs doing with mains pressure through a hose to the manifold with a hose to drain. You won't get any air out with that circulator.
You need to shut the iso valves on the manifold and run it through with mains to get rid of the trapped air, it's the only way.
You need to shut the iso valves on the manifold and run it through with mains to get rid of the trapped air, it's the only way.
I agree with rogue trader. Purging the air with the manifold pump when open to the primary flow / return is a nonsense.
The air will be moved round the system too quickly to get out of the air vent.
The manifold needs isolating and each circuit needs purging independently with a water supply & drain using the fill & drain points.
I have an instruction manual that I can email to you if you let me know your email address. Although the manual is for a different brand of manifold the principle is the same.
The air will be moved round the system too quickly to get out of the air vent.
The manifold needs isolating and each circuit needs purging independently with a water supply & drain using the fill & drain points.
I have an instruction manual that I can email to you if you let me know your email address. Although the manual is for a different brand of manifold the principle is the same.
Stephen, I can confirm the return valve is open.
Looking at the Wunda manifold on their web site - it appears that the return primary connection is on the bottom right of the manifold therefore you really only have a fill point as the connection occupies what would normally be the drain point.
I think you have an issue with air and possibly configuration & think the solution can only be found on site.
We can go round in circles with ideas as these are common solutions - a hands on solution from your plumber is the answer!
I think you have an issue with air and possibly configuration & think the solution can only be found on site.
We can go round in circles with ideas as these are common solutions - a hands on solution from your plumber is the answer!
I agree, it will take a site visit by the plumber who installed it to sort the problem out, possibly with help from Wunda.
He is due to visit either today or tomorrow, but so far hasn't responded to my builders texts to confirm which day. Based on the fact it took him a month to get on site to install the manifold, with a number of cancelled appointments, I don't think he's the most reliable person in the world. I suspect he goes where the money is and my suspicion is he's already been paid for this particular job!
He is due to visit either today or tomorrow, but so far hasn't responded to my builders texts to confirm which day. Based on the fact it took him a month to get on site to install the manifold, with a number of cancelled appointments, I don't think he's the most reliable person in the world
. I suspect he goes where the money is and my suspicion is he's already been paid for this particular job!
Can't say that I'm particularly impressed with the kit.
Just heard from the builder. It looks like the plumber won't be turning up this week and no date has been set. Why am I not surprised?
This is so infuriating
This is so infuriating
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