Well obviously I'd do it if it was my own but it doesn't sound like he's quite so confident
. Then again, I'd have done it myself in the first place and would like to think it'd be the right way in the first place!
Testing underfloor heating
- Thread starter Milleniumaire
- Start date
. Then again, I'd have done it myself in the first place and would like to think it'd be the right way in the first place!Sponsored Links
Unfortunately, the plumber can't make it until the end of the week, so on the assumption everything is connected up correctly I've opened up each of the flow gauges as follows:
From left to right: 2 turns, 3 turns, 4 turns.
I'll see how this goes, but I've already noticed lots of water noise coming from the big hall radiator (which is currently the only one turned on). Usually, the CH is almost silent. I wonder if this could be air being pushed around?
From left to right: 2 turns, 3 turns, 4 turns.
I'll see how this goes, but I've already noticed lots of water noise coming from the big hall radiator (which is currently the only one turned on). Usually, the CH is almost silent. I wonder if this could be air being pushed around?
Removing the actuators and keeping check on the flow temperature manually would solve the issue of the stats & weather comp turning the heating off.
The lack of response from the flow gauge usually indicates that the circuit is not open. Unfortunately I don't use wunda's equipment so I cant advise how to open the circuits.
Often customers unscrew the flow gauge thinking this opens the circuit - there is usually a nut beneath the flow gauge with a locking collar that needs turning anti-clockwise a couple of turns.
The noise through the rad is almost certainly air - it will go to the highest point.
The white control to the left of the pump is a blending valve usually with a sensor that goes into the manifold to read temperature - again we don't use these as they are rather cumbersome - there are blending valves available without this large knob!
The lack of response from the flow gauge usually indicates that the circuit is not open. Unfortunately I don't use wunda's equipment so I cant advise how to open the circuits.
Often customers unscrew the flow gauge thinking this opens the circuit - there is usually a nut beneath the flow gauge with a locking collar that needs turning anti-clockwise a couple of turns.
The noise through the rad is almost certainly air - it will go to the highest point.
The white control to the left of the pump is a blending valve usually with a sensor that goes into the manifold to read temperature - again we don't use these as they are rather cumbersome - there are blending valves available without this large knob!
Hi Stephen,
Sorry, but I'm not sure where the actuators are, or what they are.
I don't want to interfere with the normal running of the CH and as the UFH is connected up to this I guess I will just have to try to control the temperature of the UFH using the manifold thermostat, which should be possible, providing I can get some hot water in the UFH pipes in the first place, which seems to be my current problem.
Sorry, but I'm not sure where the actuators are, or what they are.
I don't want to interfere with the normal running of the CH and as the UFH is connected up to this I guess I will just have to try to control the temperature of the UFH using the manifold thermostat, which should be possible, providing I can get some hot water in the UFH pipes in the first place, which seems to be my current problem.
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I've just sent an email to Wunda Floor Heating, in the hope they will be able to assist me with their specific product. It may be that I just gather some more information/knowledge so that when the plumber arrives later this week I can talk to him and understand anything he may tell me.
I'm a little frustrated to be in this position and want to understand why, especially as he's making me wait until its convenient for him to visit. Based on previous experience, I wouldn't be surprised if he re-arranged by the end of the week
I'm a little frustrated to be in this position and want to understand why, especially as he's making me wait until its convenient for him to visit. Based on previous experience, I wouldn't be surprised if he re-arranged by the end of the week
The actuators would normally go where your white caps are on the lower rail of the manifold.
You have none, so don't worry about it (assuming your UFH is all one zone).
You have none, so don't worry about it (assuming your UFH is all one zone).
Hi Dan, you're right, the UHF is all one zone and so there are no actuators fitted to the manifold.
I got a response from Wunda technical support, who want to call me to discuss the problem, so that sounds hopeful.
I got a response from Wunda technical support, who want to call me to discuss the problem, so that sounds hopeful.
Hi Stephen, thanks for the offer. I live in Wetherby, so not exactly close to Doncaster.
I will see how it goes with Wunda tech support.
I will see how it goes with Wunda tech support.
I'll bet you've got an air problem, it needs filling and venting properly, not a hard job to do.
Their first question is likely to be"has the system been correctly purged of air? "
Having spent half an hour on the phone to Wunda this morning, unfortunately there was no conclusion. They basically asked me to do some simple stuff like ensure the return valves were open and adjust the flow valves etc, all of which I've already done, so I wasn't surprised that this made no difference. While helpful, the tech support guy seemed genuinely confused about what could be causing the problem.
The more I think about it the more obvious it seems to be: air trapped in the top bar of the manifold. This is the highest point of the underfloor heating system so is where air is likely to gather. Plus, the top bar never gets warm and the flow gauges have no affect, all suggesting the air is preventing water from moving around.
One interesting thing he said was that it was unusual for the supplied wireless thermostat not to be used with their underfloor heating kits. When fitting the UFH, the plumber decided it wasn't necessary to use another thermostat and so the existing weather compensation thermostat in the hallway regulates both the radiators and the UFH. There is also a thermostat on the manifold. Given that the boiler is constantly changing the CH temperature, I did wonder how well this would work as my understanding is that UFH should ideally be kept at a constant lower temperature and that it takes hours for temperature variations to take effect, unlike radiators, which can be instantly changed.
The more I think about it the more obvious it seems to be: air trapped in the top bar of the manifold. This is the highest point of the underfloor heating system so is where air is likely to gather. Plus, the top bar never gets warm and the flow gauges have no affect, all suggesting the air is preventing water from moving around.
One interesting thing he said was that it was unusual for the supplied wireless thermostat not to be used with their underfloor heating kits. When fitting the UFH, the plumber decided it wasn't necessary to use another thermostat and so the existing weather compensation thermostat in the hallway regulates both the radiators and the UFH. There is also a thermostat on the manifold. Given that the boiler is constantly changing the CH temperature, I did wonder how well this would work as my understanding is that UFH should ideally be kept at a constant lower temperature and that it takes hours for temperature variations to take effect, unlike radiators, which can be instantly changed.
Purging the air is relatively easy - there is a bleed point on each bar of the manifold. If you think air is trapped in the UFH pipework purge this circuit by circuit not all in one go.
Weather comp can be an issue with UFH due to response time so using the supplied controls may also assist with the problem you have.
Air locks can be a pain.
Weather comp can be an issue with UFH due to response time so using the supplied controls may also assist with the problem you have.
Air locks can be a pain.
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