Texecom premier elite 24 questions

[Tirglas_7]

hi

i'm renovating my 80's dormer and installing the hardware below, i've ran all the cabling and installed the pirs (in all completed rooms), keypads, control panel, smartcom and wireless expander..
The bellbox wires are in place awaiting me renovating the last upstairs room (need access to the rear of each).
I've had power on briefly and everything appears to power on.

Hardware list:

Texecom Premier elite 24 metal case
x2 Texecom odyssey 3 powered backlit external sounder
x 2 premier elite keypads
x8 bosch blueline pet pir
8XE wireless expander
smartcom
x2 smartkey
x3 impaq w sensors

also plan to add garage door sensors x2 at a later date.

i think i understand the EOL wiring and have mocked up what i think the connections are meant to be at the pir, can anybody clarify this is right? As per this helpful thread on here https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/texecom-premier-elite-24-wiring.501897/

i've set them as:

4k7 across the Alarm NC terminals
2k2 from NC terminal to Tamper.
Wire 1 into NC with the 4k7 leg.
Wire 2 into unused Tamper Terminal.




and then all is required to complete the PIR install is to connect the zones in the panel up as below and ensure the settings are configured to use eol, is that right?




heres a wider shot to show how i've set it up.




Plan is to get all the wired bits working fist then add/setup all the wireless expander, impaqs, smartcom and smartkeys.

i'm hoping to operate the electric garage door with the smartkeys.

any other advice or suggestions welcome

 

[scott1980]

Hi,

That is correct regarding the EOL resistor wiring. A couple of things I would pull your installation on would be that the alarm cables should not be run in the same trunking with mains cables, the mains connection to the panel should enter through its own cable entry (it's up at the top next to the mains connection block) I would also grommet the cable entry holes where the alarm cables come into the panel.

If I was being really picky, I would have stood the OSB board off the wall slightly and routed the wires to the Smartcom and Ricochet expander behind and into the panel with the rest of the cabling, but other than that, it looks like a fairly neat job

With regards to controlling the garage door with the Smartkeys, you would need to connect a 12v relay with clean contacts to one of the programmable outputs on the panel (program it as "PC control 1") When the Smartkey is in Aux mode, pressing the relevant button on the Smartkey will cause the relay to switch. Connect the contacts on the relay to the appropriate input on the door controller and there you go

 

[Tirglas_7]

Great many thanks for the info and advice.

I'll install more conduit then and rerun the t&e through there, I'll also still in some grommets

 

[Tirglas_7]

also can you recommend any type of sensor for up n over garage door? there is a fair bit of movement/deflection in the bottom of the door, so when its windy i'd imagine it'll move, are there any sensors designed/suited for this kind of application? hoping to install one on either side at the bottom corners to stop the corners being pulled/folded out.

i've also seen mag locks and wondering if they could be suited to such an application? and controlled via the alarm?

 

[secureiam]

If you want to see the door go open and close you need a door contact, however it needs to be either roller shutter or heavy duty angled.

heavy duty is more about the environment the device is being used in, if the reed is fixed to floor you can imagine it is it more likely to be subjected to daily heavy abuse as say your front door.

If you use a grade 3 unit then you will have to ensure the alignment of the reed and magnet is perfect, and magnet is facing the correct direction.

The manufacturers will state the working gap distance and it varies from unit to unit, so bare in mind on the gap you are thinking of, could find any nice images for you to look at though.

the place you bought your alarm bits from should sell them????

 

[Tirglas_7]

many thanks for the reply

so something like these below?

https://www.securitywarehouse.co.uk...eed-aluminium-angle-contact-yh10a-p-4542.html

https://www.securitywarehouse.co.uk...ter-contact-grade-2-red-resistors-p-1617.html

the lower one has a 70mm operating gap according to the bumf, would that be suitable? i think deflection on the bottom of the door is around 15mm now, not sure how i'd mount it though?

would i be able to hook 2 of them up to one of the rkp's which is next to the garage door?

 

[secureiam]

well that would depend on your door and what tools you have available I guess.

yes you can wire them to the keypad if the zones is free on your system 24 zones in total available, keypad zones can be mapped to free zone slots

 

[Tirglas_7]

Ok thanks, tools won't be a problem.

Edit.

Actually after having another look at the door think I'm going to go for something more like the first one.

I'll install 1 at the top edge of the door, probably wouldnt stop the bottom corners of the door being bent up, but to install something in those areas is going be a nightmare.

Then will still give me a sensor for the door operation etc.

I may install another pir facing the door as well as as the current location doesn't see both bottom corners, and possibly another door sensor on the internal door into the house.