Well technically no, as op has a neutral wire. Only way forward is run new wiring, new wireless thermostat (placing receiver near boiler or wiring center) or battery operated thermostat, or keep existing.op has same set up.
Well technically no, as op has a neutral wire. Only way forward is run new wiring, new wireless thermostat (placing receiver near boiler or wiring center) or battery operated thermostat, or keep existing.op has same set up.
op has same set up.
A general question - why does the new stat have a neutral? Does it have a booster heater? If so, it would be between terminals 2 and 3, OK if the switched voltage is 230V (and the link in) but there's only one set of contacts and booster obviously no good for both 24V and 230V. If no booster, why have a neutral?With the original thermostat, the switch is directly connected to the live internally, and as you have figured the new switch is 'dry' or 'voltage free' The reason for this is that more recently, some combi boilers have 24v control, and the voltage free contact allows the thermostat to be connected to either voltage, 230V or 24v. As you want to switch mains voltage you get it via the link between terminals (1) and (4)
It requires a permanent live an neutral for power.A general question - why does the new stat have a neutral? Does it have a booster heater? If so, it would be between terminals 2 and 3, OK if the switched voltage is 230V (and the link in) but there's only one set of contacts and booster obviously no good for both 24V and 230V. If no booster, why have a neutral?
The old stat is purely mechanical, so it will work without a neutral....the new thermostat is mains powered so it requires a live and neutral 230V supply.
Do you mean a permanent live while the programmer is calling for heat? It only has one live. To power what? The Modbus or the NTC (whatever that is doing)?It requires a permanent live an neutral for power.
That was in your #14. But it doesn't explain why. No obvious reason why the switching mechanism needs power (and hence a neutral), ones with bimetallic strip or sealed system don't have it. With or without a booster heater, though with gives finer control.Do try and keep up, I explained that in my first post
Are we getting metaphorical wires mixed up? I’m on about the BHT6000, not the Honeywell.Do you mean a permanent live while the programmer is calling for heat? It only has one live. To power what? The Modbus or the NTC (whatever that is doing)?
Unless there's a booster, neutral is not needed for switching the CH. Many years ago I had a Honeywell roomstat with 3 wires, live, switched live and earth. Worked fine.
I'm asking about the new one, the BHT-6000. The Honeywell needs a neutral as it has a booster heater.Are we getting metaphorical wires mixed up? I’m on about the BHT6000, not the Honeywell.
Yes, I’m aware of this.The Honeywell needs a neutral as it has a booster heater.
I don't know how smart the BHT 6000 is, or whether it has WiFi capability, but here it's used wired, heating on via terminal 2.Yes, I’m aware of this.
Right, so the new BHT 6000 - it’s a smart WiFi thermostat, non mechanical, non battery operated, how else do you expect it to work?
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