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Hi there,
Total novice here looking for advice or guidance on fixing and upgrading my home heating solution.
I've recently moved into a new apartment. It was rennovated before I moved in, and multiple walls were demolished & erected along with a total rewire. There was an existing Worcester Greenstar junior 28i combi-boiler which was rigged up to the new wiring. There is no water tank.
The controller that's been installed is a Horstmann Centaurplus c11 controller, and I'm not sure but i believe it existed prior to the rewire.
My main issue is that the hot water works but the heating to the radiators does not. I believe the source of the issue is that the old thermostat was removed and then the wiring was plastered over. I don't believe the wiring on the boiler was updated to relfect that the fact that the thermostat will never trigger the boiler "on".
From the research I have done the appropriate solution would have been to jump the Live Return and Live Stat wiring ports on the boiler itself, so that it was essentially always on.
Anyway, to the solution I'm looking at.
I am considering installing a Nest Thermostat, and removing the existing C11. The wiring on the inside of the C11 controller currently looks like this -
It's diagram looks like this-
The cabling closer to the wall connects to a fused on-off switch. The cabling, connected to N, L, 2 & 4) runs to another junction box. That junction box seems to be a bit of a mess. It seems like it's still connected up to the old wiring. It is behind a switch. The boiler works even if the switch is off. Here's a few pictures of this second junction (below). The wiring from the c11 controller comes in from above.
It is my hope that I can install the Nest Heatlink without opening my boiler to adjust any of the wiring in there, but I'm writing this post to ask for advice before doing so.
Here's a simplified diagram for the Nest wiring
It suggests jumping from live (L) to common (2), however I'm not sure this is needed.
I believe the way to go is to remove the C11 completely, then wire:
C11 -> Nest
N -> N
L -> L
2 -> 2
4 -> 3
Does this sound like an adequite solution? are there any oversights I mightn't have considered?
Last thing, for what it's worth, I've done sufficient troubleshooting to determine there's no issue with my boiler itself, merely the controls managing it. The 28i Junior has a service button that when helf for 10+ seconds bypasses any thermostat and manually kicks in and heats the radiators for 15 minutes or so.
Also, I've performed a good amount of wiring and home maintenence before, tackling a more than a few DIY projects, so I'm well aware of safety. I'm moreso a novice when it comes to heating specifically.
Thanks very much and let me know if there is anything I haven't covered.
Total novice here looking for advice or guidance on fixing and upgrading my home heating solution.
I've recently moved into a new apartment. It was rennovated before I moved in, and multiple walls were demolished & erected along with a total rewire. There was an existing Worcester Greenstar junior 28i combi-boiler which was rigged up to the new wiring. There is no water tank.
The controller that's been installed is a Horstmann Centaurplus c11 controller, and I'm not sure but i believe it existed prior to the rewire.
My main issue is that the hot water works but the heating to the radiators does not. I believe the source of the issue is that the old thermostat was removed and then the wiring was plastered over. I don't believe the wiring on the boiler was updated to relfect that the fact that the thermostat will never trigger the boiler "on".
From the research I have done the appropriate solution would have been to jump the Live Return and Live Stat wiring ports on the boiler itself, so that it was essentially always on.
Anyway, to the solution I'm looking at.
I am considering installing a Nest Thermostat, and removing the existing C11. The wiring on the inside of the C11 controller currently looks like this -
It's diagram looks like this-
The cabling closer to the wall connects to a fused on-off switch. The cabling, connected to N, L, 2 & 4) runs to another junction box. That junction box seems to be a bit of a mess. It seems like it's still connected up to the old wiring. It is behind a switch. The boiler works even if the switch is off. Here's a few pictures of this second junction (below). The wiring from the c11 controller comes in from above.
It is my hope that I can install the Nest Heatlink without opening my boiler to adjust any of the wiring in there, but I'm writing this post to ask for advice before doing so.
Here's a simplified diagram for the Nest wiring
It suggests jumping from live (L) to common (2), however I'm not sure this is needed.
I believe the way to go is to remove the C11 completely, then wire:
C11 -> Nest
N -> N
L -> L
2 -> 2
4 -> 3
Does this sound like an adequite solution? are there any oversights I mightn't have considered?
Last thing, for what it's worth, I've done sufficient troubleshooting to determine there's no issue with my boiler itself, merely the controls managing it. The 28i Junior has a service button that when helf for 10+ seconds bypasses any thermostat and manually kicks in and heats the radiators for 15 minutes or so.
Also, I've performed a good amount of wiring and home maintenence before, tackling a more than a few DIY projects, so I'm well aware of safety. I'm moreso a novice when it comes to heating specifically.
Thanks very much and let me know if there is anything I haven't covered.
