Thinking of Wireless Room Thermostat

[kevin12345]

Yes do have a meter

 

[twgas]

Refit the prog, turn on HW, do you get mains power on the orange wire in junction box?

 

[kevin12345]

I have put everything back to how it was and boiler starts up OK on HW and heating now.

I get 240v on the terminal holding the 2 blacks and the orange when I switch the HW on.
Or do you mean for me to try and test just the orange wire alone?

 

[twgas]

I didnt actually mean put everything back how it was.
Lets see.
Prog......................relay
L. L
N. N
4.(remove existing) A
Removed wire. B
Leave old stat for now.
See what happens.

 

[kevin12345]

I will have a go at it again another night. I have to go out now.
Thanks for the help

 

[kevin12345]

Back on this job again.

Wired up as per instructions.
HW OK, Boiler comes on.
Wireless stat is turning relay on and off like it should but the Boiler is not starting up.
Any ideas what I have wrong?
Thanks

 

[twgas]

Old room stat needs to be calling (turned up)

 

[kevin12345]

What so do I put old thernostat back where it was in the junction box, turn it up to full and still leave the link wire in the junction box?

 

[D_Hailsham]

May be this diagram will help.

It shows the 'existing' and 'new' wiring. (Click image to enlarge.)

Untitled

• D_Hailsham
• 2 Jun 2013
• 1

 

[kevin12345]

Thanks for the diagram, I'm still a bit confused.

This is what I have done so far

Remove wire from 4 in prog and join to B in relay, also as before.
You also need to connect 4 in prog to A in relay.
The link in junction box is a short wire that joins together the 2 terminals that the old room 'stat switch was removed from. (T4 and T5)

Doesn't seem to start boiler up.
What was that about having the old thermostat turned up? even when disconnected?

 

[D_Hailsham]

This is what I have done so far

Remove wire from 4 in prog and join to B in relay, also as before.
You also need to connect 4 in prog to A in relay.
The link in junction box is a short wire that joins together the 2 terminals that the old room 'stat switch was removed from. (T4 and T5)

Sorry for using the Celect stat terminals in the diagram; I didn't see that you now had a Honeywell stat. 2= A; 1 = B.

Your wiring is correct and the boiler should work. We need to find out why not - one step at a time.

1. Please confirm which make/model programmer you have.
2. Will the boiler light for hot water only?
3. Does the pipe from valve to cylinder get hot?
4. Will the boiler light for CH and HW at the same time?
5. Does the pipe from valve to rads get hot?

What was that about having the old thermostat turned up? even when disconnected?

I would ignore that; it doesn't make sense to me either!

 

[kevin12345]

1. Please confirm which make/model programmer you have.
2. Will the boiler light for hot water only?
3. Does the pipe from valve to cylinder get hot?
4. Will the boiler light for CH and HW at the same time?
5. Does the pipe from valve to rads get hot?


1. Danfoss FP715
2. Yes
3.Yes
4. Yes
5. No

Before I tried to fit the wireless stat every was working ok

Bye the way I have not quite worked out yet how to take quotes properly from previous posts yet.

 

[D_Hailsham]

1. Please confirm which make/model programmer you have.
2. Will the boiler light for hot water only?
3. Does the pipe from valve to cylinder get hot?
4. Will the boiler light for CH and HW at the same time?
5. Does the pipe from valve to rads get hot?

1. Danfoss FP715
2. Yes
3.Yes
4. Yes
5. No

Yes for Q3 and Q4 is as expected.

The 'no' for Q 5 means the valve is not opening to mid-position. This can be due to: No voltage on the brown wire (Junction box T4) or the valve motor has packed up.

Use your meter (AC volts) to check voltage between JB/T4 and T2 when
calling for heat.

If you have 240V, can you hear the motor whirring?
If yes - the actuator is faulty as the valve is not opening.
If no - the motor is faulty

If you don't have 240Vac between JB/T2 and T4. You need to trace back to find out why not. You start at the programmer!

Take all necessary precautions

Remove programmer from back plate
Check all terminals are done up tightly and no loose wires
Insert a link between L & 4 and between L & 3
Turn power on
Check boiler lights and both pipes from valve get hot.
If Yes: fault at the programmer
If No: Use meter (AC volts) to double check that there is 240V between 3 & N and 4 & N.
If that's OK, remove Relay box from back plate.
Check for 240Vac between L & N and between A & N.
If either is incorrect, the wire from the programmer to relay is faulty.
If OK
Insert a link between A and B
Check again
If boiler lights and pipes get hot the relay is faulty.
If not OK
Check for 240V on terminal 4 in the junction box (valve brown wire)
If not OK: wiring fault from relay to junction box
If OK: valve fault
Can you hear the motor whirring?
Yes: valve not opening - could be sticky or faulty actuator
No: motor has died.

I think that's enough to go on with.

Bye the way I have not quite worked out yet how to take quotes properly from previous posts yet.

Every quote has to start with a [quote] and end with a [/quote]

Quotes can be embedded within quotes

[quote] Blah Blah
[quote]Rabbit Rabbit
[/quote]
[/quote]

becomes

Blah Blah

Rabbit Rabbit

 

[kevin123456]

I will have to have a go at this Tomorrow night now.
I had a new acuator fitted about November last year.

Will check it all out.

Thanks for help

 

[kevin12345]

Thank you for your help, I follwed it step by step almost right to the end then I noticed that the extended wire going to the relay had come loose.
Fixed it and it seems to be working ok now.

Last question is I want to plant the wires in the wall coming from the programmer to the relay. If I do this and at a later date need to change the wireless stat to maybe a different one will the wires that I put in the wall be the same wires that I need for a new stat ( even if they don't connect same on the new one) or will I need to run from different terminals in the programmer?