This appears wired back to front
- Thread starter RobTi
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Not being pedantic, but for the sake of clarity, in your diagram the right hand "LOOP OUT" cable should be renamed "SWITCH DROP".
Not being pedantic, but for the sake of clarity, in your diagram the right hand "LOOP OUT" cable should be renamed "SWITCH DROP".
getting 19 v on and 69 volts off. I have a dimmer relay fitted( https://shelly.cloud/products/shelly-dimmer-2-smart-home-light-controller )so will retest it later with just a connector to bypass everything
My apologies and I know how it happened; originally I was drawing all the loop outs on the top with switch and lights on the bottom but then I changed half way through to match the way they are physically located.
Thanks for pointing it out.
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238-240v lights on with wires connected by terminal block 0v with wires separated
And the newish cable I thought went to my last downlight in that room but no that would have been too easy will need to have a further investigation. Can someone tell me why the black sheathed with black and the black sheathed with red signifies on 2 different cables ?
I'm beginning to wonder if I've got hold of the wrong end of the stick. Are you able to confirm that the cables I labelled in your picture [post #12] are correct ie 'lights' does go to lights and 'switch cable' does go to the switch?
What voltage do you see between 'L' & 'N' [ie the 2 connectors with the mass of reds and blacks] with the lights off and on?
Is there another junction box splitting out to the 4 lights? If so which cable goes to it?
What voltage do you see between 'L' & 'N' [ie the 2 connectors with the mass of reds and blacks] with the lights off and on?
Is there another junction box splitting out to the 4 lights? If so which cable goes to it?
Post 12 I get the 240v with lights on and 0v with lights off (so assumed that was the switch wire) Main bunch of lives to main bunch of neutrals 240v tested and yes to the left about 4” is another 2 connector blocks with cables which I assume went to the down lights.
Is this removing the switch and using a connector at the switch location?
If so I believe my modified sketch of post #9 is suitable.
I'm assuming the 3 fibreglass sleeves [heat resisting] are the original wiring, as mentioned in post#9 and would have been terminated in a batten holder as L,N & E, their 2 associated reds would have been joined [probably with a ceramic wire nut] above the ceiling, as now, without sleeving.
Am I correct to assume the cable I labelled 'lights' goes to these additional connectors?
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Yes removing switch and connecting the wires to a connector block so nothing extra fitted at the room switch gives me 240v at the connector and if I disconnect them at the connector block at the switch 0v as you asked me to test in post 12. Re the original connector blocks I seen a couple of ceramic ones lying about (couldn’t tell you if he removed these from here or not) yes I am sure the ones you labled lights goes to the lights. Many thanks if you confirm that this should be right and as I had another look at your diagram it all looks okay to me now bar the blue/brown cable that looks like a permanent live to me and not switched at all.
Thanks
Can I Ask for recommendations for a junction box to tidy this up, I would usually just use the 5amp round ones but would all the cables would fit or could I just use 2 of them ?
Thanks
Thanks
The easy way is to get a large enclosure and use connector blocks inside. Not the best way, but acceptable.
To do it tradionally, a large 20amp 4 terminal junction box should do it.
If you find traditional junction boxes fiddly, use one or two Hager maintenance free 20 amp 4 terminal junction boxes. From memory I think each terminal only accept a maximum of 4 wires (someone here may be able to confirm this) so work out how many of these you would need.
If you can trace where each cable goes to, and label each cable on your photographs, we could tell instantly if the joint has been wired correctly.
To do it tradionally, a large 20amp 4 terminal junction box should do it.
If you find traditional junction boxes fiddly, use one or two Hager maintenance free 20 amp 4 terminal junction boxes. From memory I think each terminal only accept a maximum of 4 wires (someone here may be able to confirm this) so work out how many of these you would need.
If you can trace where each cable goes to, and label each cable on your photographs, we could tell instantly if the joint has been wired correctly.
Yeah, the hager MF boxes only accept four wires in each terminal so you would need two boxes for 6 cables.
According to https://www.connexbox.com/Wagobox-Applications_v7.pdf the original wagobox will accomodate four 773-106 connectors each of which can accomodate 6 wires. Unfortunately while it's easy to find the box itself at a reasonable price, the connectors are often sold in large packs.
According to https://www.connexbox.com/Wagobox-Applications_v7.pdf the original wagobox will accomodate four 773-106 connectors each of which can accomodate 6 wires. Unfortunately while it's easy to find the box itself at a reasonable price, the connectors are often sold in large packs.
Sure I have a large 20 or 30 amp jb just need to find it and see what terminals it has in it.
Thanks
Thanks
Nope it’s not a 4 terminal one so will hit Screwfix for a couple
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