Everything you say here is essentially correct.......all welding is the fusing of similar materials to make them as one.
Naturally enough, this has to ensure that no oxidisation of the weld has taken place. With electric arc (stick welding) the rod is coated with flux that coats the join as it is fused. The technique here is to move the rod in like a mobile U movement towards you. This prevents the slag trapping oxide in the join......easier said than done, of course! with a good weld, the slag just taps off with little adhesion.
With MIG, the work is shrouded in an inert gas such as CO2 or argon, often mixed. Too little gas gets blown away, too much gas can cool the weld too quickly. MIG wire is thin, often 0.6 or 0.8 mm in diameter. Too high a wire speed gives a large gap between torch and the work piece, too low a speed or excess current causes the wire to fuse inside the shroud which encloses the wire nozzle. Gasless MIG wire has a flux within it that prevents oxidisation and the techniques mentioned above are much the same.
With MIG it's a juggling act between wire speed and current applied - this comes with practice. The beauty about this is that excess current 'blow holes' are easy to fill in, as oxidisation shouldn't be trapped.
With TIG welding, the arc produced is shielded with argon, and a filler rod of the same material as the weld is usually added - very similar to brazing, if you like. This is the way to go with non ferrous metals, and very thin stuff as the heat produced is strictly localised.
For starting out, I'd personally go for a MIG set with a larger gas cylinder than the throw away cylinders can provide, with 0.8mm wire. The set needs maybe three current choices and a variable wire speed.
John
Naturally enough, this has to ensure that no oxidisation of the weld has taken place. With electric arc (stick welding) the rod is coated with flux that coats the join as it is fused. The technique here is to move the rod in like a mobile U movement towards you. This prevents the slag trapping oxide in the join......easier said than done, of course! with a good weld, the slag just taps off with little adhesion.
With MIG, the work is shrouded in an inert gas such as CO2 or argon, often mixed. Too little gas gets blown away, too much gas can cool the weld too quickly. MIG wire is thin, often 0.6 or 0.8 mm in diameter. Too high a wire speed gives a large gap between torch and the work piece, too low a speed or excess current causes the wire to fuse inside the shroud which encloses the wire nozzle. Gasless MIG wire has a flux within it that prevents oxidisation and the techniques mentioned above are much the same.
With MIG it's a juggling act between wire speed and current applied - this comes with practice. The beauty about this is that excess current 'blow holes' are easy to fill in, as oxidisation shouldn't be trapped.
With TIG welding, the arc produced is shielded with argon, and a filler rod of the same material as the weld is usually added - very similar to brazing, if you like. This is the way to go with non ferrous metals, and very thin stuff as the heat produced is strictly localised.
For starting out, I'd personally go for a MIG set with a larger gas cylinder than the throw away cylinders can provide, with 0.8mm wire. The set needs maybe three current choices and a variable wire speed.
John

