Tightening old radiator valve

[MattB83]

This radiator valve is leaking, I suspect since the plumber drained the radiator as part of a boiler install a couple of weeks ago, the nut is rounded and it's hard to tell if it is (was) square before and I have tried with an adjustable spanner but no joy and don't want to round further - anyone know what size this should have been and any suggestions on how to tighten?


https://photos.app.goo.gl/pVNS1da3yjWHdZYn8

 

[oldbuffer]

1. It would have been square originally.
2. That is a drain off valve. Inside there will be a rubber washer, like a tap washer, which may have failed, hence the leak.
3. To replace the washer requires the water to be drained from the system, unless you have the experience to:
3a. "Bung" feed from the F&E tank and bung the open vent (open vented systems)
3b. Release excess pressure via a radiator bleed valve, close the bleed valve and let the system "seal" itself.
3c. Freeze the pipe leading to the valve - and it doesn't look as if there is enough room to do this.
4. The washers are normally 3/8" ones (e.g. Screwfix 7473J), but they do vary, and some are metric.
5. I normally replace the drain off valve as its quicker than faffing about finding the right washer.
6. If replacing use a type A (heavy duty) valve. I can't tell from your picture if its soldered or compression. Use something like BES 6921, with a straight connector, either compression or soldered.

 

[ianmcd]

That isnt a radiator valve , its a drain off cock, post another pic from furter out showing the pipes it is attached to

 

[HERTS P&D]

Call the plumber back, he should of replaced the washer when he drained it down. There is no way that was not going to leak.

Andy

 

[MattB83]

That isnt a radiator valve , its a drain off cock, post another pic from furter out showing the pipes it is attached to

https://photos.app.goo.gl/hdCMJPyAgp1bFVkZ6 any good?

 

[MattB83]

Call the plumber back, he should of replaced the washer when he drained it down. There is no way that was not going to leak.

Andy

So no point at all trying to tighten?

 

[MattB83]

1. It would have been square originally.
2. That is a drain off valve. Inside there will be a rubber washer, like a tap washer, which may have failed, hence the leak.
3. To replace the washer requires the water to be drained from the system, unless you have the experience to:
3a. "Bung" feed from the F&E tank and bung the open vent (open vented systems)
3b. Release excess pressure via a radiator bleed valve, close the bleed valve and let the system "seal" itself.
3c. Freeze the pipe leading to the valve - and it doesn't look as if there is enough room to do this.
4. The washers are normally 3/8" ones (e.g. Screwfix 7473J), but they do vary, and some are metric.
5. I normally replace the drain off valve as its quicker than faffing about finding the right washer.
6. If replacing use a type A (heavy duty) valve. I can't tell from your picture if its soldered or compression. Use something like BES 6921, with a straight connector, either compression or soldered.

Thanks for all that info. Looks soldered to me so I assume it's either trying a new washer or call in a plumber?

 

[ianmcd]

yes it is soldered as others have said get the plumber back

 

[Elkato531]

Get the plumber back but give the radiator and surrounding area a bit of a clean first. Your home is our workspace don't forget.

 

[MattB83]

Get the plumber back but give the radiator and surrounding area a bit of a clean first. Your home is our workspace don't forget.

It was behind a cover I'd never taken off!

 

[Elkato531]

Ah. Fair enough

 

[MattB83]

1. It would have been square originally.
2. That is a drain off valve. Inside there will be a rubber washer, like a tap washer, which may have failed, hence the leak.
3. To replace the washer requires the water to be drained from the system, unless you have the experience to:
3a. "Bung" feed from the F&E tank and bung the open vent (open vented systems)
3b. Release excess pressure via a radiator bleed valve, close the bleed valve and let the system "seal" itself.
3c. Freeze the pipe leading to the valve - and it doesn't look as if there is enough room to do this.
4. The washers are normally 3/8" ones (e.g. Screwfix 7473J), but they do vary, and some are metric.
5. I normally replace the drain off valve as its quicker than faffing about finding the right washer.
6. If replacing use a type A (heavy duty) valve. I can't tell from your picture if its soldered or compression. Use something like BES 6921, with a straight connector, either compression or soldered.

Arrr getting a plumber within a month is apparently a challenge where I live!

I obviously can't replace the whole part as it's soldered in place and I'm happy to drain the system myself but my concern is that if I get the spindle (if that's the correct name) out, it might be too rounded to tighten back in place with the new washer - can I get a new spindle to go into the old valve?

 

[fixitflav]

Arrr getting a plumber within a month is apparently a challenge where I live!

I obviously can't replace the whole part as it's soldered in place and I'm happy to drain the system myself but my concern is that if I get the spindle (if that's the correct name) out, it might be too rounded to tighten back in place with the new washer - can I get a new spindle to go into the old valve?

There's a good chance it will unscrew if you warm it up with a blowtorch (protect the skirting with a heat shield). The rubber seal is knackered anyway. I doubt you can buy a new spindle on its own, but you can check the thread and buy a complete valve.
The barbed spigot end is for a hose when draining, and should face down or at least horizontal. If you replace the complete valve you can correct it.

 

[nitro23456]

Wheres it actually leaking from? The drain off point or the spindle?

If the drain off, just attach a small section of hose and block the end if you want a very temporary solution whilst you wait the month for a plumber to do it properly.

 

[gas112]

Why would it take months to get a plumber have you contacted the guy who fitted the boiler yet to tell him he has left a leak