Tiling on concrete slab subfloor

[MrShed]

hi all,

Just after a bit of advice.

Getting a tiler to tile my floor, but he will basically do what I tell him rather than "best practice".

Floor is really quite level - certainly seems to be within 12mm. Couple of cracks but only tiny.

What I was going to do was:

- Clean the floor
- Put DPM across the floor with adhesive
- Stick 15mm Poly insulation (for insulation, vapour barrier and water resistance)
- Tile (ceramic) on top of this

Sound like a plan or am I doing this totally wrong?

 

[tictic]

u could talk to ur tiler see what he would recommend mate seems a bit overkill ere.
1.check floor for any low an high spots deal with accordingly
u say 12mm is this the run from one end of room to other?..if so,ok tiles will just follow this.
2.clean floor (brush/hover)
3.seal floor with bal sbr..up room then when dry across room
4.check layout of tiles
5.tile away.

 

[jctilingservices]

am with tic tac on this, you really seem to be wanting to go overboard totally unneccasarily

 

[tictic]

jc (jimmy) welcome aboard mate...u still cant get my user name right ...

 

[jctilingservices]

jc (jimmy) welcome aboard mate...u still cant get my user name right ...

oh but i can mate, just tic tac was my way of having a bit of a laugh to see how long it would take you to pick up on it.WELL DONE tictic

 

[MrShed]

Hey guys, thanks for the responses.

The reasoning behind the "overkill" is because although I dont suspect the floor is damp per se, I do think that its a little bit more moisture containing than I would like.

Therefore, wanting to prevent any damp and associated vapour.

Also, there is a small area (about 2 foot square) which is a 2 inch deep hole filled using wooden joists and ply across the top - done this way as there is probably no DPM underneath it.

Also again, although the cracks themselves are small, there is one crack which is basically about an inch square hole, right beside the back door - not concerned about it itself, but just want to make sure tiles dont crack over it.

finally, due to a stopcock move/adjustment, the ceramic sleeve that the stopcock comes up in will effectively be tiled over (difficult to explain properly, but suffice to say it cant be filled in properly, and it needs to have tile over it) - therefore trying to not just tile straight over it so it will crack instantly.

IF I did it this way (and I take on board your points that it may be overkill), I assume that you can tile directly onto the poly?

 

[tictic]

just seen you and jc are in the same neck of the woods.
why not pm him get him over for a look mate?

 

[MrShed]

Yeh I noticed that too tictic thanks and was pondering on it!

Only thing is that I'm in something of a desperate rush to get this done (i.e. by middle of next week pretty much latest, I have no kitchen until its done!) - so therefore trying to use the existing workmen I have.

that said, still not a bad idea - may well do so