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timber framing sizes ?

Perhaps to some a wall unit is mounted on a wall, and a floor unit on the floor.. But in essence both being the same kitchen cupboardy kind of construction

I'd call it a larder unit - floor supported but so tall as to require a wall fixing to prevent topping when the kids climb on it :)
 
Freestanding - not built in
Strapped to wall - fabric or metal strap to the wall to stop it falling forward.
Wall unit - would be mounted on wall and therefore impossible to be freestanding.

“ book shelves freestanding but strapped to walL”. What would you call it? If not a wall unit
 
Perhaps to some a wall unit is mounted on a wall, and a floor unit on the floor.. But in essence both being the same kitchen cupboardy kind of construction

I'd call it a larder unit - floor supported but so tall as to require a wall fixing to prevent topping when the kids climb on it :)
Neither are cupboards. Neither are larder units. Both are just open bookcase/storage units with shelves supported of vertical timbers and occasional horizontal supports a bit similar to the attached but strong without overkill.
 

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“ book shelves freestanding but strapped to walL”. What would you call it? If not a wall unit
Responsibly stabilised book shelves, that is what I would call them.
I have a run of 5 so-called free-standing bookshelves along one wall of our quiet room and since having bouncy 3, 4 and 5 year olds frequently around the house who want to climb up anything and everything, all 5 have been securely fixed to the wall by a bracket at the top. I was prompted by a friend whose grandson climbed a bookshelf in his house and pulled it over onto himself.
 
Thanks still don't know what size timber would be suitable for uprights and top, middle, bottom horizontal supports
what you saw in ikea will work for the uprights; it is strong in the direction that matters for the forces it will experience. For the horizontals you'll need a thicker section to go the proposed 1300mm or reinforce with metal bar as proposed. Personally I'd use thinner section and have an interim slim vertical support
 
If you say so though as back, front and sides are open would not consider it a unit
So, a freestanding wall unit.

what you saw in ikea will work for the uprights; it is strong in the direction that matters for the forces it will experience. For the horizontals you'll need a thicker section to go the proposed 1300mm or reinforce with metal bar as proposed. Personally I'd use thinner section and have an interim slim vertical support
Thank you. What size sections would you suggest
 
30mm+, depending on the weight of what you plan to load on them

Did you try the sag calculator recommended in post 1?
 
Oh, I don't think anyone posted a link. Reply #1 mentioned "sagulator"; if you google it you'll find a handy website you can use to calculate how much a shelf of a given material and span and thickness will sag under a given weight, and a lot of useful surrounding information
 
Found it
Oh, I don't think anyone posted a link. Reply #1 mentioned "sagulator"; if you google it you'll find a handy website you can use to calculate how much a shelf of a given material and span and thickness will sag under a given weight, and a lot of useful surrounding information
Thanks. More interested in the bow of uprights
 
for a given timber size used for a shelf the sag is proportional to the cube of the distance between supports, so going from 1 metre to 1.3 metre spacing gives (1.3)cubed extra sag. So would give more than twice the sag. Mr Rustys answer would help you use a thinner shelf without the sag. Even just reinforcing at the back would make quite a difference.
 

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