Tips for installing a new PVCU window into a new opening

[macadonald]

Hi Guys,

Weekends job is to install my first PVCU window into the opening of the new extension. Standard kitchen style window. Has anyone got any useful pointers before I jump in. I have read a few diy type websites and have found varying advice, which sometimes differs. The two main uncertainties are the cill and the depth to set the window from the outside of the blockwork.

Some sites suggest fixing the cill to the blockwork and others suggest fixing the cill to the frame, prior to fitting and then sloting the lot in.

The other uncertainty is the depth the frame should be from the outer blockwork. My skins are 100mm blocks, so should I push the inside of the frame to the inner cavity edge of the outer skin? I can't really go any deeper than this as it will have nothing to fix to in the cavity.

Oh, one other thing. I have searched the web for window fixing screws, just to be sure and there seem to be two options, ones with the plastic plug and ones that screw directly into the blockwork after drillign a pilot hole. Is one better than the other?

Just after any helpful advice that you may have learnt over the years.

Regards

Mac

 

[noseall]

Ideally the window should be positioned so that there is no chance of cold or damp transfer from outer to inner skin.

Architects would have you site the jambs so that they are practically wholly in the cavity.

Pragmatists like me suggest that you locate the window so that the back edge of the jamb (internal face) is kept so that it just laps onto the cav' closer, i.e. none of the outer skin of masonry is visible once the window is fitted.

We use concrete screws, they are brill. Don't drill your hole to big. 7mm is too big for conker screws.

We always fix the sill to the window first. We always squirt a bead of silicone along the correct side of the join to prevent whistling but still allows collected water to vent out via the weep holes. Window fitters do it t'uther way round.

Fix your cav' closers (if applicable) prior to fitting the window

 

[macadonald]

Thanks noseal, good to know what others do.

Would be good to get otherpeoplesopinion as well, only because my research showed both options.

Regards

Mac

 

[garyo]

I switched to concrete screws a year ago, and love them - so much easier than fiddling with packers.

 

[^woody^]

Proper window fixings can be better for DIY, as they will not pull and distort the frame when tightened. And the frame won't need packing as you tighten them up

The only advantage of masonry screws, is that of speed for the installer

 

[macadonald]

Thanks all. Think I will give the concrete screws a go. Can I be a pain and ask what size you'd recommend for the job? I assume with concrete screws, it is simply pilot hole through the frame into the masonry and then tighten? Does the pilot need to go into the masonry.

Be handy to know what size pilot hole for the screw size you recommend.

Cheers

Mac

 

[noseall]

Thanks all. Think I will give the concrete screws a go. Can I be a pain and ask what size you'd recommend for the job? I assume with concrete screws, it is simply pilot hole through the frame into the masonry and then tighten? Does the pilot need to go into the masonry.

Be handy to know what size pilot hole for the screw size you recommend.

Cheers

Mac

1. 100mm will probably do.

2. It is better to place a spacer in the desired gap then remove the spacer once the screw has grabbed.

3. 6mm or 6.5 mm hole. (6.5 if it is tough brick).

4. You can get away with piloting the masonry where softer aerated blocks are used. It is still useful to start the hole though.

 

[macadonald]

Thanks for that Noseal. I assume you mean 8 x 100mm screws?

 

[garyo]

These are the fellas I use : http://www.rapierstar.com/prod_fix.asp

I forgot they have the star head - that helps make things easier too.

Gary