tips on sanding floor

[Halloween Jack]

Hi all,

I have a small hallway about 3.5m long with varying widths between 1 and 2m. It's a very uneven shape.

It was carpeted and led onto 2 rooms with bare boards varnished with antique pine.

I had heard sanding a floor was a technically easy job, just unpleasant.

So I pulled up the carpet, rented a push-a-long sander and a little one for edges.

I spent a few hours sanding it down and thought it was ok. I varnished the floor but then realised I had done a really bad job

The surface has loads grooves in it and even the smooth bits have a different finish. Where the existing floor is slightly reflective and feels really smooth and coated, almost like plastic, what I have down feels and looks like stained wood.

I'd like to try again and get it right so I had a few questions:

1) Since the hall is small I found it very difficult to move the large sander around evenly. I think where I kept having to move or rotate it I caused the grooves. The boards run perpendicular to the length of the hall. How should I have used it?

2) Was the problem in the surface that I didn't use the fine sand paper for long enough?

3) How long should it take? Maybe I just didn't do it for long enough?

4) Is varnish the correct finishing product? Looking at it now, I'm not sure that varnish creates that plastic like finish. Or do I just need loads of coats?

Any other tips, or suggestions on how I can get this bit of floor as nice as the rest?

Cheers

 

[mack4]

Hi all,



I had heard sanding a floor was a technically easy job, just unpleasant.



Cheers

Well now you know.The flooring "has" to be finish sanded in the same direction as the woodgrain,but because your hallway is laid the wrong way for sanding,you will have to hire an orbital action sander.Most hire shops will have these,not to be confused with small hand held sanders though.Start with the coarsest paper first,working your way down through the grades,finishing with the finest grade.Rub the floor with a moist cloth to find any lines/blemishes and make sure you get them all sanded out,before you varnish.If it's a softwood floor you'll need a minimum of 3 coats,but probably nearer 5,considering it may be a high traffic area.
Hope this has been of some help.
mack

 

[Halloween Jack]

Yes thankyou. That is a lot of help.

So, I'll rent an obital sander, and I guess I'll need the small one too for the edgaes and corners?

Since it's orbital, should I go up and down the hall against the grain? I guess it doesn't matter since it's orbital.

I think they offered me 3 grades last time. Am I looking at about 1-2 hours for each grade do you think?

Cheers

 

[mack4]

It really depends on how badly the previous sanding has marked the boards..Using the coarsest paper 1st, sand the scratches/lines from the previous attempt out then on to the next and so on.You will use a lot of the coarse,less of the medium and less again of the fine.Remember to empty the vacuum frequently,otherwise you'll be dusting for months.Good luck.
mack

 

[big-all]

course sand paper removes deviations[leaves flat]
medium removes the swirls from the coarse paper
smooth removes the swirls from the medium paper

 

[WoodYouLike]

smooth 120 grit for oil finish
smooth 150 grit for lacquer finish

(just to complete the lists )

 

[mack4]

smooth 120 grit for oil finish
smooth 150 grit for lacquer finish

(just to complete the lists )

That the last word then Karin?
Heh heh.
mack

 

[WoodYouLike]

But of course (coarse?)

 

[Halloween Jack]

Thankyou all.

I guess my existing floor is lacquer since it has that 'plasticky' feel.

I will guive it another try when I can perseude the wife the dust won't be as bad as last time

Cheers

 

[ajrobb]

I've seen mention that after the medium sanding, wipe the floor down with a wet rag to raise the grain, let dry overnight, fine sand and repeat. Fine sand between coats and wipe down with white spirit.

THIS IS JUST WHAT I'VE SEEN. I would like feedback from people who know.

 

[WoodYouLike]

Not a normal practise when you apply oil or HardWaxOil.

 

[ajrobb]

Not a normal practise when you apply oil or HardWaxOil.

OK. I think it was in reference to obtaining a 'glass like' varnish finish, which is not so fashionable.

 

[tall_tone]

Not a normal practise when you apply oil or HardWaxOil.

Not a normal practice with lacquer either!
Finish to 120 or 150 grit, apply the water based primer, then cut back any grain raising, remove any dust with a vacuum and damp (tacking) cloth, then apply the top coats. Some manufacturers will require cutting back between coats, others only after a certain period of time. Check the instructions.
Not aware of any manufacturer would require white spirit to clean between coats.