To PVA or not to PVA

[AaronD]

Hi

Thanks to the advice on this site, I successfully completed my first ever tiling (about 3 months ago), 26 sq metre kitchen diner floor, over ply and concrete, and no movement in the tiles, no cracks, and no obvious sign that I did it myself. I should say that it took me four days ! I also really enjoyed tiling.

But i now have to tile the kitchen splashback, and a prof tiler has said I need to PVA the walls first. But this time I'd thought I'd check here first.

The walls are a combination of new wall - newly plastered, plasterboard, and some boxing in (using leftover ply from the kitchen floor) for the central heating pipework. All this work is about 4 months old now.

Do I have to PVA ? And which one do I use ?

The adhesive I have bought is BAL (again) White Star water resistant ceramic wall tile adhesive.

And do the tiles sit directly onto the worktop, or a spacers (2mm) width above ?

Any help greatly received.

many thanks
Aaron

 

[jefoss]

the Wr that i use has a pva in it, so maybe the bal one does, check the tub.

and yes leave a small gap between the side and the tiles.

congrats on the other job.

 

[lawrenso]

Dont PVA the walls- this forms a barrier and the tiles will only bond to that, not to the plaster/substrate. BAL do a sealer that is available from Topps Tiles specifically for this.

I found this out when I removed tiles in our kitchen and came off very easy. I thought it was down to our cheap builder. However, after we retilled I had to remove quite a few due to a cockup by a Sparkie and I was shocked by how easy these tiles came off. I then investigated and found this out - PVA - great when painting - not great for tiling.

I hope I am not too late with this advice.

Cheers

Steve

 

[gcol]

PVA - great when painting - not great for tiling.

PVA - great when PLASTERING - not great for painting.

 

[lawrenso]

PVA - great when painting - not great for tiling.

PVA - great when PLASTERING - not great for painting.

whoops - it was late - please forgive me

 

[jefoss]

cheap builder. cockup by a Sparkie /quote]

what directory do you get these great guys from? that nice program off the telly? rogue traders.

 

[lawrenso]

cheap builder. cockup by a Sparkie /quote]

what directory do you get these great guys from? that nice program off the telly? rogue traders.

believe it or not - Word of Mouth for the spark...Builder was the cheap as chips of the building world - cheapest shower, bath suite, kitchen, sink, taps, tiles etc... For what was described as a "notable specification house" - not got real issues on that - it is that the tradesmen were the cheapest and it tells in the finish. He took his decent ones off onto his new job.

The spark realised his mistake and walked off the job (for the kitchen refit). Funny enough the two best tradesmen I found were in the Yellow Pages....I have found sometimes word of mouth can be - get my drinking buddy some work on the side......

Go figure!!!

Steve

 

[jefoss]

yellow pages is mostly good, word of mouth the best

im in yp incidently

 

[roy c]

Don't use pva use sbr as a sealer, they may not fall off now but they will!!!

 

[AaronD]

oh dear. Oh dear, oh dear.

I applied the PVA (a 5:1 mix Wickes PVA to water), the day before tiling. All seems to be ok - so far. I hope it is all ok. It all looks good.

I do however have another question and I do not know if it is a "tiling" question.

I have to apply the kitchen silicone sealant where the tiles meet the worktop (I have left a 2mm gap).

My worktop is solid wood, and I usually apply sealant with a wetted finger, but the tube says explicitly to NOT do this.

Because the worktop is wood, I do not want to use a palate knife, for fear I will scratch the worktop.

Can anyone please advise me on how to apply the silicone sealant ?

many thanks
Aaron

 

[Belboz]

Try one of the tools in the link below. There are plenty places which sell them. They come in all sorts of shapes and sizes.

Even though the tool can be used 'as is', I've never tried it that way. I normally mask both sides [the tile surface and the worktop] ensuring the silicon will be in a straight line and look as 'professional' as possible. I then use the tool to 'finish' the silicon.

Takes a little time masking up and ensuring the silicon line will be straight but I have always had good results.

Remove the masking tape shortly after applying the silicon and it should leave straight lines.

However, I am a DIYer and not a professional so I will bow to the superior opinions and experience of those professionals who post on here.

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/21308...s/Caulk-Rite-Sealant-Finishing-Tool-Pack-of-3

 

[AaronD]

Thanks Belboz

Thanks for the advice, and the linky. Will go to my local screwfix shop and get a pack of those, and practise on the worktop offcuts first.

thanks
Aaron

 

[roughcaster]

AaronD wrote,

I usually apply sealant with a wetted finger, but the tube says explicitly to NOT do this.

You tell "the tube" to mind his own business.......Anyway,I usually apply sealant with a "Sealant Gun", and then "finish" it off with a wetted finger. Sorry Aaron, I know what you mean though. I think the manufacturers have to put that advice on the tube for H/S reasons, but most of us would probably finish it off that way too. (wetted finger)..... As long as you don't eat the stuff, you should be ok.

Roughcaster.

 

[jefoss]

As long as you don't eat the stuff, you should be ok.

Roughcaster.

so thats why when im sealing i always get the ****s afterwards

 

[gcol]

You can forget those tools - nothing beats the finger.
If you use the masking off method, don't forget to go over the sealant again once you have removed the tape. //www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=72231