Basic Tiling Advice Please

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I am due to retile my bathroom including the floor which is currently lino floor tiles.

I plan to remove the current wall tiles, flatten the surafce so it is reasonably flat and tile straight onto this surface. Should i ideally PVA the surface first and if so why?

The floor: I plan to put plywood down (screwed into floor boards) and then tile onto this ply wood. Do i need to treat the plywood at all - i.e. PVA it??

Thanks guys
 
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I am due to retile my bathroom including the floor which is currently lino floor tiles.

I plan to remove the current wall tiles, flatten the surafce so it is reasonably flat and tile straight onto this surface. Should i ideally PVA the surface first and if so why?

The floor: I plan to put plywood down (screwed into floor boards) and then tile onto this ply wood. Do i need to treat the plywood at all - i.e. PVA it??

Thanks guys

NO PVA at all mate, if your adhesive manufacturers advise you to prime or whatever you a proper primer . Same for your floor but definately NO PVA
 
Thanks for your advice.

I did think PVAing seemed needless but I had noticed around the forum that people recommended PVAing.

Thanks for your help
 
Thanks for your advice.

I did think PVAing seemed needless but I had noticed around the forum that people recommended PVAing.

Thanks for your help

i think you have been looking at the wrong forum somewhere, i cannot imagine any tile fixer on here or elsewhere even who would advocate the use of PVA

When tiling anywhere PVA is a NO unless manufacturers recommend it
i dont know ANY manufacturer who would recommend you to use PVA.
 
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You should tank the walls in the shower area before tiling. Read the sticky at the beginning of the tiling forum - a lot of useful information there.
 
Is tanking a must?

Current tiles have been there for over 10 years with no issues and they are straight on plaster board...just fancied a change??
What is the standard procedure?
 
Hope some of the professional tilers would reply to this. I have tiled one bathroom so far - my own. The walls are solid masonry, plastered and skimmed. Following the advise from this forum, I tanked around the shower. According to the tilers the grout can't stop the water penetrating trough it, so thanking is necessary.

Are you sure your walls are not tanked under the tiles? The tanking solution I applied was not visible once it dried.
 
Hope some of the professional tilers would reply to this. I have tiled one bathroom so far - my own. The walls are solid masonry, plastered and skimmed. Following the advise from this forum, I tanked around the shower. According to the tilers the grout can't stop the water penetrating trough it, so thanking is necessary.

Are you sure your walls are not tanked under the tiles? The tanking solution I applied was not visible once it dried.


When tiling an area where you have an obs (over bath shower) i do not consider it a must to tank, tanking these type of areas is a precautionary measure, unless the area is going to be considerably WET very often, ( as in possibly someone who stands in the shower for half an hour at a time )thats why i said marmox boards

you say according to the tilers "grout cant stop water penetration"

Epoxy grout it 100% TOTALLY WATERPROOF, it is the ONLY grout that is. Most grouts are water repellant, top a degree but i have to admit they are sold as " waterproof" which they are not
 
Yes, the epoxy grout is waterproof, never tried it myself though. They also say the epoxy is more difficult to apply that other grouts, so might be tricky for a beginner.
 
Yes, the epoxy grout is waterproof, never tried it myself though. They also say the epoxy is more difficult to apply that other grouts, so might be tricky for a beginner.



epoxy grout and adhesive is something i would NOT reccommend for a D.I.Yer mate ;)
 
If they used tanking similar to what I used - you can't tell. Plus, when removing the old tiles you can damage the tanked surface underneat. I would tank anyway. If you shop around you can probably find a good deal. I bought a Dunlop tanking kit for about 20 pounds from a discounted tiles shop.
 
If they used tanking similar to what I used - you can't tell. Plus, when removing the old tiles you can damage the tanked surface underneat. I would tank anyway. If you shop around you can probably find a good deal. I bought a Dunlop tanking kit for about 20 pounds from a discounted tiles shop.

I didn't use a Tanking kit nor was it said to be 'required' during my research. I mounted Aquaboard, primed it with Bal Waterproof Primer, then tiled straight ontop using BAL Rapidset.
 
If I remember correctly, my research showed that tanking is NOT required if you are using Aquaboard. But for my bathroom this wasn't an option. The OP didn't mention Aquaboard either. Anyway, he might have already have a newly tiled bathroom :)
 

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