Tool Advice needed - cutting the bottom of an internal door.

[georgiedorsett]

Hello, this is my first post and I'm hoping to receive some good advice/instruction!

I recently (6months ago!) laid new carpet on my stairs and landing and took the airing cupboard door off to make life easier.
I'm finally getting around to putting the door back on and need to lose about 1.5cm off the bottom.
Its a cheap internal door that I believe is hollow and I'm not sure how big the frame of the door itself is but my real question is what do I cut it with?? I own a general hand saw and a jr hacksaw. (I have my eye on a jigsaw!)
My thanks

 

[HERTS P&D]

You would have to use a panel saw. No to the hacksaw or jigsaw.

Andy

 

[newbuyer17]

I have just done this with a cheap circular saw. Had a guide on it for straight line parallel to bottom of door.
Not sure if this is what the pros would do,but was perfect for me.

 

[georgiedorsett]

Thanks! I have a panel saw!
That'll be a job to tick off the list this wknd!

 

[CraigUK8]

Hi
If you are using a panel saw do make sure its teeth are sharp. The start of the cut will be easy as you cut across grain but after about 5cm you will be cutting along the grain which is more challenging.
For the price of about £10 I like the Stanley FatMax saws as their hardened teeth are very sharp.
The other thing I personally would do is after removing the waste section, finish up the rough surface with a very sharp hand plane working inwards from both outer edges of the door. That way you’ll have no wood bits/dust getting onto your new carpet after re-fitting the door.
Cheers.

 

[georgiedorsett]

Hi craiguk8,
I was really hoping not to have to buy anything specially for the job. I have had my saw a long time but have only used it for 2 or 3 small projects at most. I have no idea how often you would need to replace that sort of thing!
When you say 'challenge' after the grain direction changes, do you mean extra elbow grease or really really hard work?!
Either way I do have a plane so that's a handy tip

 

[screamer]

if it's flush ply door, what i do, if i score/cut the ply with a stanley knife (back & front), that way, the back edge won't splinter as much

 

[CraigUK8]

Hi craiguk8,
I was really hoping not to have to buy anything specially for the job. I have had my saw a long time but have only used it for 2 or 3 small projects at most. I have no idea how often you would need to replace that sort of thing!
When you say 'challenge' after the grain direction changes, do you mean extra elbow grease or really really hard work?!
Either way I do have a plane so that's a handy tip

Hi georgiedorsett
In terms of grain direction:
Take a bit of pine timber say 3cm thick. Cut across the grain and it is dead easy with a hand saw. Cut along the grain (parallel to the length of the piece of timber) and you will find that it takes a lot longer because you are not slicing the bundle of wood fibres, you are in fact parting them down the middle. Known as a Rip Cut. You might also find that the saw blade goes off line following the grain which needs correcting during the cutting process.
So long as you are working with a saw that has sharp teeth, it should not be a problem. Let the saw blade do the work without extra pressure. It will manually just take a bit more time.
Patience is a virtue here.
I am assuming here that your door is internally framed with Pine and outer covered with a man made wood composite material. Even possibly MDF which is easy to work with.
My advice is to take your time and end up with a good result.
I previously fitted a new hardwood external door and frame and it took me about 6 hours to do it properly. I used an electric hand planer to remove the bulk of the mahogany from the door followed by a smoothing plane (razor sharp) to put a quality finish on the bottom. For the record I am not a Professional, however when I do work with wood (my hobby), it has to be right.
Good luck and I hope all goes well for you.
Cheers
Craig