Tool for sanding cast iron radiators

[svouts]

Hi, I have 14 cast iron radiators to restore.
What would be the best tool for sanding them down before painting?
I was thinking of a drill metal brush but I assume it will be a slow process.
I also need to reach inside the vents of the radiators to stand them properly.
Any recommendations?

 

[svouts]

I have checked sandblasting but is expensive.

 

[JohnD]

is it rust you want to remove, or old paint?

I'd probably have use a wire brush attachments.

Strong goggles and PPE as well as dust mask. Those brushes can shed wire whiskers.

 

[Burnerman]

So many nooks and crannies, see if you can strike a deal with a mobile grit blaster......not the cheapest maybe but it will save your sanity!
John

 

[opps]

Can the radiators be removed without each of the joins failing? The traditional (long multisection) rads used long bolts to hold them together. Moving them often breaks the seals.

You will not get a decent finish with a wire brush attachment, period- sorry.

Off hand I can only think of sand or soda blasting. Either way, if you want a decent finish you will need to find someone that will spray them with a electrostatic hvlp.

The sad reality is that (assuming that you want a high quality finish) it may be cheaper to replace them. I recently worked in a house where the client had old cast iron radiators with the really, really fat cast iron pipes. The plumber refused to remove the old boiler and fit a new combi unless the client binned the old rads because of the risk of contaminants entering the new combi.

If you don't want to pay for blasting, purchase some Abranet paper (it is very flexible) and use lots of elbow grease. 80 grit Abranet will cost about a tenner for 2m. It is expensive but stays sharp much longer than "regular" sand paper. Off the top of my head, a 600mm rad will take an hour or two to sand (assuming that it doesn't have loads of chips and was simply badly painted previously).

 

[Tigercubrider]

There's soda or dry ice blasting but dry ice needs a big compressor

 

[svouts]

Many thanks for the replies so far!

I found on the web metal brushes for drill in diferent dimensions, like the one in the picture.

Would it sand the radiator faster than a manual brush?

 

[Burnerman]

It will help to some degree as you can get into the various cavities et al......it will shift general loose debris but will struggle with paint. Radiators (the old type that I assume you have) are sand cast - perfect for holding paint!
John

 

[opps]

Many thanks for the replies so far!

I found on the web metal brushes for drill in diferent dimensions, like the one in the picture.

Would it sand the radiator faster than a manual brush?

Sorry, my response is possibly/probably not what you want to read.

Those brushes will do little other than polish the surface of the paint. The net result could well be paint that doesn't adhere to the surface and chips of as soon as someone bumps into it.

I understand you wanting to save money but your expectations are unrealistic.

 

[magicmushroom666]

What about chemical paint stripper, Nitromors seems to eat most old paint.

 

[opps]

What about chemical paint stripper, Nitromors seems to eat most old paint.

Nitromors used to eat most old paint, but that was back in the days when it was methyl chloride based. MC was determined to be carcinogenic and now cannot be (legally) sold to DIYers. You can still get it though.

Assuming that the radiators are still on the wall, any stripper will leave ripped paint edges where the OP was unable to brush the stripper any further. Sanding those edges will be pretty awkward.

Detailed photos of the state of the radiators would help though. If the number of coats is fairly few than the stripper might be a good option, if there are decades of layers of paint then it could be a mare.

Another consideration is that any stripper may "eat" the joins between the radiator sections (or it might not).

 

[geraldthehamster]

I would have them shotblasted. By the time you've bought tools and materials, the cost difference won't be huge, and you will save a lot of your own time and cursing. And get a good job.

 

[EddieM]

Soda blasted. quickest and best for this

 

[cwhaley]

Bit late to the party, but have you tried SynStryp by Starchem? I have used to to remove paint from an old Raleigh bike, a Hillman Super Minx wing/door and paint from an old lawnmower. It is much better than Nitromors.

 

[opps]

Bit late to the party, but have you tried SynStryp by Starchem? I have used to to remove paint from an old Raleigh bike, a Hillman Super Minx wing/door and paint from an old lawnmower. It is much better than Nitromors.

That is good ole fashioned methyl chloride paint remover.
,
I googled it and found this disclaimer from a supplier (btw it was the first Google listing...

The product can be deadly if used incorrectly. If you use in an unventilated area in concentration, it can knock you out.

This happened to a decorator who was stripping to repaint some underground toilets - he died as a result.

So we have a duty to clarify to every buyer. If used correctly then there is nothing to be concerned about.

Whilst not wanting to seem to be making light of the fact that someone died. The product if used in a well ventilated area, in my opinion should be fine. I use MC from time to time. It is considered to be carcinogenic. I am an ex-smoker, I have no way if knowing whether my former addiction or my occupational exposure to the likes of MC is gonna kill me first.

Given that it was the DIY paint remover of choice for many years, I am inclined to think that it is not terribly dangerous when used sensibly (once every blue moon and with adequate ventilation).

That said, many people that use this site are complete DIYers. And regrettably some will just read the first reply and ignore the rest...

For their benefit- Paint remover may kill you ( or not..)