Torx bolt size

[spyder53]

Hi, I'm replacing rear discs on my Astra 2001 (51) and there are torx head bolts holding the calliper in place, do's anyone have any idea the size of torx socket needed, or is there another way to remove using a standard socket?.
Cheers Rich[/u]

 

[stuartturbo]

I have managed to get an allen key when desperate.
But I the brought a set a used in so many places

 

[Peter.N.]

They are not expensive to buy:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Torx-Sock...t=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item519fe5973b

 

[spyder53]

Thanks for your reply, you can use a 7mm Allen key for front callipers but not the rear as they are held with torx head bolts so they need a socket to remove them.
Rich

 

[Peter.N.]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-8-DRIVE...t=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item2a19e2329b

 

[Burnerman]

Here's a guess - male, torx 30 required
John

 

[Belle427]

dont buy cheap male torx bits either, they snap like carrots on caliper bolts

 

[Burnerman]

Bloomin' right - I had a Kamasa set that nearly took my eye out......
Laser stuff will do though.
John

 

[spyder53]

Ok thanks I'll bear that in mind, Im still don't know the torx size though?

 

[Luckyphil]

Call the local Vuaxhall Garage and ask for the Workshop , if asked they will normally tell you

Lucky

 

[spyder53]

Hey everyone who replied, thanks for your comments the job is done apart from some reluctant bolts it was'ent to bad, the Torx socket is a E18 if anyone wants to no they hold the caliper completely in place take your time moving these lots of WD40 and pressure don't use sudden movement you will round them, there is still a prob though, after fitting I still have spongy pedal I've bleed them but no change anyone got any ideas?

 

[Burnerman]

E18 - thats a fairly chunky female one then.
Don't expect a good pedal feel until the new pads have bedded in (not relevant if the pads and discs are new).
When you say spongy, does the brake pedal actually sink to the floor?
Have you bled all 4 wheels?
If no joy there, get a pal to press the brake pedal hard while you feel for any swelling flexy pipes.
John

 

[spyder53]

Ive fitted new discs and pads all round did the front first then the rear I bled each as I did them, since found out that I need to bleed in sequence starting n/s/r then/o/s/r same for the front is this correct?

 

[Burnerman]

The sequence isn't actually important, but it was of some relevance if you had a car where all of the brake pipes had been renewed....it meant that the longest pipe was purged of air first.
So - new gear all round, you should have a very firm pedal which is pretty near the top of its travel.
Try this....engine off, pump the pedal a few times - it will rise right to the top of its travel and become harder to press. Keep pressure on the pedal and start up - if the servo is ok the pedal should sink a little but obviously not continue to travel any further.
I presume you haven't split any of the brake connections near the ABS unit or the master cylinder at any time.
Give the new pads 50 miles or so to bed in.
John

 

[Mursal]

Yes, have someone on the pedal before you open. Hold open until the pedal goes to the floor and tighten. Only then, release pedal. Pump pedal and continue until no bubbles, sometimes a clear pipe from the bleeder helps.

Keep an eye on the brake reservoir, and as you know, it has 2 parts a front tank and a back tank.

Brake fluid will lift paint

Back in the day we never opened a bleeder to change pads, how things change

Edit: Sorry John didn't see you there