Track saws.

[opps]

@JobAndKnock

I suspect that I, like many other people set the blade depth so that it just about cuts through the sheet material. From what I have read elsewhere, I get the impression that the blade should clear by 0.25 to 0.5". In the real world, does it really matter that much?

 

[Deleted member 174758]

AFAIK, the newer Festool saws have knives that retract when doing plunge cuts. I have never used any brands so I don't know if they do.

Makitas and the Bosch GKT55CE don't have a riving knife (I have the DSP600, a TS55 and a GKT55CE, so I can compare them directly). Kickback isn't a major issue on man made sheet materials providing you use the saw correctly, i.e don't run a dull blade, let the saw run up to full speed before making any cut, grip the saw firmly - 2 hands, and never stand directly behind the saw. All this is how you should use any portable saw though

With regards to accuracy - my guide rails are the older ones that only use one connecting bar when using two shorter rails. They are far from perfect. I ended up buying a single rail long enough to cut an 8ft length.

Having also started with the single connector rails, and now being on the two connector ones, I would agree. I find that when I've joined two rails if I up-end the rails and rap one end smartly on an offcut of ply or the like on the floor it tends to correct any errors.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

I suspect that I, like many other people set the blade depth so that it just about cuts through the sheet material. From what I have read elsewhere, I get the impression that the blade should clear by 0.25 to 0.5". In the real world, does it really matter that much?

I just set the blade to be 1 to 2mm deeper than the material thickness. Plywood never being completely flat or uniform (really) you may need to go an extra 5mm deeper on it. I find the biggest issue is having a flat breaking down table to work on top of. My own preference is to build a couple of quick and dirty trestles (out of 2 x 2 or 3 x 2 CLS, etc) for any job I am on (900mm wide at the top, 900mm high more or less), together with an 1800 x 900 breaking down table out of 1in thick stuff (e.g. 4 x 1, 6 x 1, etc). These days I set that as an apprentice task... As this is sacrificial as I am cutting into the top edges I want my overcut to be as small as possible. My last table top, made out of 3 x 1-1/2 stuff, has just been thrown away after 2 years of intensive site use

 

[opps]

I just set the blade to be 1 to 2mm deeper than the material thickness. Plywood never being completely flat or uniform (really) you may need to go an extra 5mm deeper on it. I find the biggest issue is having a flat breaking down table to work on top of. My own preference is to build a couple of quick and dirty trestles (out of 2 x 2 or 3 x 2 CLS, etc) for any job I am on (900mm wide at the top, 900mm high more or less), together with an 1800 x 900 breaking down table out of 1in thick stuff (e.g. 4 x 1, 6 x 1, etc). These days I set that as an apprentice task... As this is sacrificial as I am cutting into the top edges I want my overcut to be as small as possible. My last table top, made out of 3 x 1-1/2 stuff, has just been thrown away after 2 years of intensive site use

A lot of the time, when working at home, I often just use lengths of timber on the floor to raise the sheet up (enough to accommodate the rail clamps). Once the sheet becomes small enough, I drop in on to my plastic trestles. Far from ideal but space is a bit of a premium.