Traditional TRV Service Kit

[Restoration man]

Hi
I have been restoring an old house for ten years, just finished and Im now having problems with my Rad TRV's. They are the traditional style exaclty as per link https://www.victorianplumbing.co.uk...-radiator-valve-far-ag-bl?campaign=googlebase, although about £40 when I bought them not £99!! I have two at the TRV end that are weeping at the Pin seal. The Pin being the bit that is pushed up and down as you adjust or it self adjusts itself.

I dont have a spare to pull apart and cant possibly buy new valves to replace what is probably an O-Ring or rubber seal. Can I buy new Pins and seals for these?

See photo attached.

Thanks

 

[ianmcd]

Try giving the gland nut a little tighten, and dont buy anything from Victoria plumb, they are absolutely dire

 

[Restoration man]

Ah the gland, I couldnt remember the name. If you look in my previous pic the gland looks like its already shouldered out on the main body of the TRV. I dont think I can tighten it but will try gently.

When I removed the TRV head the pin was stuck in the closed position. I pulled it up gently with pliers and it jumps to opened. It doesnt move smoothly between open and shut. Could be corroded inside. I was hoping I could strip it and clean it or get a new gland. I know you can get Danfoss replacements etc but not sure if I can get for these. Surely you cant expect someone these days to replace an entinre TRV at £100 because the gland has failed.

If my heating is off and cold can I remove the gland or will fluid **** everywhere?

Surely I dont have to drain the system? I just put £100 of liquid gold Fernox Alphi 11 in the system two weeks ago fitting the last Rad!

Thanks

 

[ianmcd]

Just get some silicon grease and some wire wool, remove the gland with a snmall towel below it, a little bit of water will come out, but it will stop, remove the pin and give it a good scrub with steel wool, or abrasive paper or brillo pad or anything that removes the crud, a spot of silicon grease and put the pin back in and re-fit the gland, should be fine once you have done that, I have a whole box of brand new ones somewhere but havent seen them for years

 

[Restoration man]

Just get some silicon grease and some wire wool, remove the gland with a snmall towel below it, a little bit of water will come out, but it will stop, remove the pin and give it a good scrub with steel wool, or abrasive paper or brillo pad or anything that removes the crud, a spot of silicon grease and put the pin back in and re-fit the gland, should be fine once you have done that, I have a whole box of brand new ones somewhere but havent seen them for years

Ian when you say remove the gland. There are two hex sizes, if you look in my original posted pic. The outer is 19mm and winds out the hole fitting. The inner is 14mm. I slackedned both off and tried to take out the inner 14mm part with the pin. I was able to fully remove the thread but couldnt pull the brass piece out with the pin. I didnt go mad incase.

Can I wind out the full part with 19mm nut. Is this where you say only a small amount of fluid should come out.

Should I shut in the lockshield end when doing this or will the Rad hold the fluid in itself anyway?

This is a downstairs rad but my upstairs and downstairs are on seperate circuits ovbiously with a zone valve for each so Im thinking if heating is off and cold and upstairs shouldnt be adding head to the lower rads.

Much appreciated.

Thanks

 

[ianmcd]

That one, dont undo the bigger one or you will get soaked

 

[Restoration man]

That one, dont undo the bigger one or you will get soaked

View attachment 245503

Awesome thanks, so If with the inner hex fully unthreaded it is a little stiff to come out I must be trying to pull against a rubber disk etc?

 

[ianmcd]

yes there is a little rubber bung under it, just pull it will come , it is the rubber bung that stops any water coming out, well you will get a little bit but nothing to worry about

 

[Restoration man]

Thanks for all your help IanMCD.