Treating a veneered mdf for water protection

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JP_

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I was looking for a shop like that before!
Probably would be better. Also more expensive ... £17.19, or £104.54

But maybe ...
 

JP_

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OK, the boss has agreed budget increase.
Should the oak shelf be given a oil, wax or lacquer finish for a bathroom?
 
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I’d say oil or wax. Or varnish. Or leave raw! I’m sure one of the painters/decorators on here will know better.
 
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2-pack lacquer or at the very least pre-catalysed lacquer on every surface - a minimum of 3 coats. Oils and waxed are semi-permeable and therefore less than ideal in damp environments like bathrooms.
 
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2-pack lacquer or at the very least pre-catalysed lacquer on every surface - a minimum of 3 coats. Oils and waxed are semi-permeable and therefore less than ideal in damp environments like bathrooms.

I agree but the op should ask the supplier if they can spray either finish. They may not be set up to use 2 pack isocyanate based paints. A lacquer finish is mentioned as an option but it doesn't say what kind of lacquer

A few years ago I had to repair a client's very expensive worktop. They had left a hot pan on it. I don't know what you call the worktop, it was like hardwood plywood but each "veneer" was about 4mm thick. I used MC paint stripper to remove the existing clear AC spray finish. Sanded it and then sprayed it with ISF AC2 Clear Topcoat. Health risks aside when working with it, it is great stuff and suitable for pub bar tops. The downside is that my supplier (Smith and Rodgers) only sell it in 5L tins. They also sell a AC Brushing Thinners.

I had so much AC2 left over that I was able to spray my own teak worktops.
 
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