trimming a worktop in situ

[robertoi]

Hi,

Ive just had some wooden worktops fitted by a carpenter. Unfortunately, he did the left hand mason's mitre in such a place that the worktop ended up with very little overhang of the units on the left, while on the other side, there is probably about the right amount of over hang, but it looks odd compared to the left.

I would like to trim the front of the right hand worksurface (approx 60cm) down and then sand finish by hand. Trying to choose the tools for the job. Dont have a router, which would probably have been best I guess, so it'll need to be a jigsaw - but what type of blades are likely to give me the cleanest cut I can get? The worktops are 40mm thick oak.

Thanks,
Rob

 

[Deluks]

A jigsaw will probably wander over the 40mm depth. Have you a circ saw? Obviously the last bit will need finishing by hand. I would also give it a go with a recip saw, as they are similar to jigsaws in operation, but the blades being much stiffer will give a more accurate cut.

If you can clamp a straight edge to work against then all the better. Use a small sheet of mdf or laminated edged board pushed up against the wall and clamped to the front overhang of the worktop.

 

[robertoi]

No circ saw or reciprocating saw, Im thinking of hiring a router for the day just to get a clean cut.

 

[Symptoms]

Rob - why not use the short end for a 'commercial' type of metal hanging rail. Available in brass or chrome, with stand-off brackets. By fitting one of these to the dodgy end of the worktop you'll create the illusion of the thing being balanced.

Unless you can remove the w/top from the cabinets you'll be very lucky to cut the long end across its whole width effectively as your jigsaw will foul on the wall before you finish the cut. Also, I wouldn't use a jigsaw 'cos you'll not get a straight (or perpendicular) cut. If you are determined to shorten the thing, and can slide the w/tops clear, then hire a router to do the job.

 

[big-all]

I would also give it a go with a recip saw, as they are similar to jigsaws in operation, but the blades being much stiffer will give a more accurate cut.

.

the trouble with reciprical saws is although the blade is thicker and more sturdy the actual clamping mechanism and the shoe can be very slopy causing the blade to wander
or at least both my ryobi and dewalt 18volts are

also you will be very lucky if you get a matching pair using a different router/ cutter/guide/or jig on each half

 

[robertoi]

thanks for the advice guys, not sure if Ive made it clear what Im trying to do tho - I would be looking to cut along the FRONT edge of the worktop, for a distance of around 600mm, where the worktop has a deeper overhang (significantly so) than the worktop on the other side. I would be starting at the end of the worktop, working towards the corner where there is a masons mitre with the next piece. I would need to finish off the inside of the corner by hand....

 

[Deluks]

ouch! That's a tricky one.

 

[Symptoms]

Rob - Ah, got it now! One leg of the L shape has a wider surface (front to back)? If that's case you could make the modifications in-situ, without removing the w/tops. Circular saw (if you've got quite a bit to remove) then router, or just router for a small slither. Hire the tackle ... as it's on the front edge you don't want it wavy. Use a new worktop cutter!!!! Firm (well clamped) fence to work against. Practice, practice, practice on an off-cut or length of ply 'till you're confident. I assume the w/top is square edged???