Truing up frame work

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Hi there,

For my own reasons I need to box in something in the corner of a room. I need to have the whole box removable around a couple of times a week (don't ask why) - all fixings need to be hidden.

I have built a 6 foot L shape frame that I hoped would free-stand in the corner and be fastened to the two walls by means of magnetic catches.

My issues is that the L isn't a true L with a 90 degree angle all the way along the length. It bows out at the top and requires pressure to hold it square against the wall. The magnets aren't strong enough to hold it in this position.

The frame is made of thin planed kiln dried wood from wickes. I have damped this down in the shower (I cannot soak it overnight due to the size) I have then fixed it temporarily in place with screws to the final resting position.

My question is a simple one, will the wood retain its new shape when dried? If not how can I reshape it to fit?

Thanks,

Dean
 
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Wrong question, you should be asking how to construct the box, no frame is required, simple mdf box could be hooked onto concealed fixings.You also forgot to mention what you frame is made from and dimensions.
 
D'oh,

Box is 6 ft high. One edge is 7 inches. Other is 12 inches. made from 18x28mm planed softwood.

I thought of just butting two pieces of wood at right angles but I thought it would be too flimsy.

I guess I have over-engineered and over-complicated the project!

Well, now the frame is made, do you have any ideas on truing it up? Or shall I start again? :)
 
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Thanks for all advice so far.

Since I started this thread, the wood has dried in it's screwed in position. I removed the screws and it sprung back just a very small amount compared to before.

I have screwed it back and used a plant soaker/sprayer to dampen it again.

It appears to be working.
 
Some things just get too complicated

I know...

My theory is that an opportunist burglar won't get in my safe. But once they know it's there, they may return well equipped. I'm a copper and I see this all the time. The last person I nicked for similar was equipped with a 24v angle grinder!
 
Your pespective is from the dark side ,I,m a carpenter

My family name is Carpenter.

Thought of the day:

The optimist says the glass is half full
The pessimist says the glass is half empty
The engineer says the glass is twice the size it needs to be
 
when i build furniture for people the plinth at the bottom is a secerate drawer set back around 3" with a small half circle at the top not visible unless your on the floor to pull it out with a tool or small finger
 
when i build furniture for people the plinth at the bottom is a secerate drawer set back around 3" with a small half circle at the top not visible unless your on the floor to pull it out with a tool or small finger

I like that a lot!
 
you can take your flatpack furniture and make the bottom into a secerate drawer but you need a good fitting bit off board to cover the drawer in case they pull all the drawers out exposing the top off hidden drawer

you can also make the unit as designed and a couple off batons on the floor to support the board covering the area and remove one or more drawers to allow you to lift the board for access
 
In order to look like a pipe box it must look like a pipe box, at 6 foot high on a standard 8+ foot high wall for instance it will look out of place won't it...pinenot :unsure:
 
In order to look like a pipe box it must look like a pipe box, at 6 foot high on a standard 8+ foot high wall for instance it will look out of place won't it...pinenot :unsure:

Yeah. I'll add a fixed section above it and cover the seam somehow.
 

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