Truss gable

Joined
17 Apr 2015
Messages
3,020
Reaction score
537
Location
Warwickshire
Country
United Kingdom
Hi
I've got trusses on my extension roof but never thought about a gable ladder. I'm having a barge board overhang, so can I fit 4x2 noggings to the last truss and build them into the blockwork? The only issue I see is the truss might deflect a bit when nailing the barge board on, but not sure what other options I have? (Ordering a gable ladder not being one of them).
I only need about 100mm gable overhang.
Cheers
John
 
Sponsored Links
That's all normal too. (subject to any of my previous posts saying otherwise)

You just need to make sure the ladder is level when you do the brickwork, so put a level/ straight edge across the ladder and three trusses and pack the ladder as necessary before building in each noggin.
 
Thanks woody, so currently all the trusses are up, the last truss being just off the inner skin on the inside. So I was planning on cutting short lengths of 4x2 noggins, and screwing (and glueing?) Them at regular intervals to that last truss. Then building the gable blockwork, making sure the noggins are built in. Then fitting my last rafter (flying rafter?) screwed to those noggins, and levelling it across 3 trusses like you say. I think ties in with what you're saying if I'm reading it right?
 
Thanks woody, so currently all the trusses are up, the last truss being just off the inner skin on the inside. So I was planning on cutting short lengths of 4x2 noggins, and screwing (and glueing?) Them at regular intervals to that last truss. Then building the gable blockwork, making sure the noggins are built in. Then fitting my last rafter (flying rafter?) screwed to those noggins, and levelling it across 3 trusses like you say. I think ties in with what you're saying if I'm reading it right?
 
Sponsored Links
Like this - can't see why this won't work?
I'd do the brickwork next then fix the last rafter afterwards .. ?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20170902_140825.jpg
    IMG_20170902_140825.jpg
    267.3 KB · Views: 3,703
Like this - can't see why this won't work?
I'd do the brickwork next then fix the last rafter afterwards .. ?
Correct. It is a simple as it seems.
Build your block-work first, then do the brickwork.

Don't forget the restraint straps and noggins.

Fit your barge rafter last or it will get in the way of you laying the masonry. If your noggs are twisting upwards leave a gap under them so that you can correct this with your (nice and straight) barge rafter.

Fix the barge rafter using a straight edge across the exiting rafters. Fix it at the top and at the bottom (to the fascia). Then fix it to those noggs in between, adjusting them if necessary so that they finish flush with the top edge of the barge rafter.
 
That's great thanks noseall, my barge rafter is a bit of 4x2, and I'll then finish with some of the thin upvc fascia cladding, is that the normal way of doing it?
 
That's great thanks noseall, my barge rafter is a bit of 4x2, and I'll then finish with some of the thin upvc fascia cladding, is that the normal way of doing it?
Yes.
We add a thickening lath and fix 'J' trim and hollow soffit before adding the lipped fascia cap. We try and thicken the 4" x 2" so that the lip of the fascia cap butts flush to the hollow soffit. The internal measurement of fascia cap is 10mm less than the prescribed size. So a 150mm fascia will have an internal measurement of 140mm.
 
Like this? If you'll excuse the poor quality sketch
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20170903_215517.jpg
    IMG_20170903_215517.jpg
    69.2 KB · Views: 271
Like this? If you'll excuse the poor quality sketch
Correct but the J trim needs a solid wide section and is fixed closer to the wall rather than the outer end. We sometimes use ply or 4,5,6" x1" planed. depending on the size of the soffit overhang so that the whole of the soffit underside can be screwed to.
 
Correct but the J trim needs a solid wide section and is fixed closer to the wall rather than the outer end. We sometimes use ply or 4,5,6" x1" planed. depending on the size of the soffit overhang so that the whole of the soffit underside can be screwed to.

Ah that's interesting - so the other J trim supports the inside edge of the soffit? I usually polypin the soffit to the woodwork and then finish it with a bead of silicone, but I can see that using some J-trim is a neater way and would let you cut the soffit to size without worrying too much about how tidy a job the saw does.
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top