Not surprised , needs a lot of cross members below top to prevent that .
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Twisted scaffold boards
- Thread starter efunc
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Gosh, the twist on those benches is insane!
If they're for a rustic look, just use them as they are.
The twist will pull one leg of the frame up, but weighting it down and soaking for a few days with a hose will probably work.
If it doesn't, put a spacer under the offending leg.
Nobody will notice.
The twist will pull one leg of the frame up, but weighting it down and soaking for a few days with a hose will probably work.
If it doesn't, put a spacer under the offending leg.
Nobody will notice.
Update: I sold those warped boards to someone who wanted to make raised beds where it didn't matter too much. I went out and bought two new 3.9m standard Grade A scaffold boards. They were all stored upright in the depot and I tried to select two that didn't have twists or bows, were nice and straight etc, but all seemed to have slight cupping. It's impossible to check this too well when they're stored like that.
Anyway, I'm pleased that these will be easier to work with and initially I thought I would just use them concave side down and lots of cross bettens underneath to force the crown down and keep them flat. That much should be OK I'm hoping.
However.... I'm looking at the corner of the L-shaped bench where I'm going to mitre the 4 boards together. I've started to think that this would work best as a half-lap mitre join to stop the boards curling and warping over time and the mitre looking a mess. (note that this area is completely covered so will never be directly exposed to elements, but still...).
So, given my inexperience am I an idiot to attempt a big half-lap mitre of 4 cupped scaffold boards??? I don't want to 'lock in' the cupped profile when I cut away half the board thickness, so I'm trying to figure out how to do the cut. I have a 165mm circular saw where I can fix the depth of the cut and then just follow the cupped surface and hopefully acheive a corresponding cupped join. It sounds challenging, but any other advice or thoughts on this? Should I fgorget about it and just do a butt jointed mitre instead and hope for the best?
Anyway, I'm pleased that these will be easier to work with and initially I thought I would just use them concave side down and lots of cross bettens underneath to force the crown down and keep them flat. That much should be OK I'm hoping.
However.... I'm looking at the corner of the L-shaped bench where I'm going to mitre the 4 boards together. I've started to think that this would work best as a half-lap mitre join to stop the boards curling and warping over time and the mitre looking a mess. (note that this area is completely covered so will never be directly exposed to elements, but still...).
So, given my inexperience am I an idiot to attempt a big half-lap mitre of 4 cupped scaffold boards??? I don't want to 'lock in' the cupped profile when I cut away half the board thickness, so I'm trying to figure out how to do the cut. I have a 165mm circular saw where I can fix the depth of the cut and then just follow the cupped surface and hopefully acheive a corresponding cupped join. It sounds challenging, but any other advice or thoughts on this? Should I fgorget about it and just do a butt jointed mitre instead and hope for the best?
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