UFH Flow Meters

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I have fitted an Under Floor Heating System in our house, it has 6 zones, each with its own thermostat. Due to circumstances beyond my control, (shortage of cash), I ended up putting in 22mm chipboard flooring, on top of which is 10mm laminate. I would have preferred to use 18mm Engineered Wood but that wasn't possible. So consequently the heating is slower than it could have been.

I've just checked my flow meters and they're set at what I think is the maximum of 5L per minutes but that doesn't seem to be adequate.

My question for anyone who knows about these things is: Why do I need Flow Meters at all ??

I've read loads of stuff on 'balancing' a system, but do I need to care about that ?

It seems to me that max flow through my manifold would mean my zones would heat up more quickly allowing the thermostats to switch out the Activators as and when required.

So, can I remove the Meters ?? How could I blank the Meter holes in the manifold.
 
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There is no benefit to circulating any faster than that, what temperature are running? and how long are you running the heating for?
 
When I first installed the system, the Flow Meters which came with the Manifold always seemed to be leaking and we lost pressure, so I cut the bottoms off and I screwed them in tight, (I basically killed them), and the heating was fine, nice and warm. I've since changed the manifold for a better one but this time I've left the Flow Meters in place, (much better quality and they don't leak), but the rooms don't get warm enough, hence this thread. I was running the heating from 5 a.m. until 10 p.m. which was fine, then I decided to run it for 24hrs per day which is also o.k. I have the room temperature set at 35C on the boiler, (Vitodens 200W), but it just isn't as warm as it was, so I'm considering blanking the Flow Meters again.
 
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So you have dt10 across the floor. Running the water higher than design flow rates will do nothing but damage the pipes and cause unnecessary system noise.

You should have designed the system better and not put so much timber on top of the loops.
 
Oh dear, jumping to conclusions or assuming you are right and that the rest of the world is wrong is unfortunate for those who do.

I used Pex for my underfloor piping, (which is designed to accomodate water up to 90C at up to 5.5 Bar, read the specs), as to the floor design that was unfortunate but it's what I have. We don't get ANY noise.

Beside criticising, the original question was: WHY do I REALLY need Flow Meters.
 
So you know how much flow is going through the loops. I.E., it is working as designed.

What has the temperature and pressure rating got to do with anything i have posted?
 
Just in case you need it for later ;).

image_21352.jpg
 
you don't need them, take them out.

FYI paddy, I'm pretty sure Dan's underfloor heating in his house works really well. Just let that sink in.
 
Quoted from your first message: "Running the water higher than design flow rates"

Why do I always end up with the IDIOTS of this world ????? :D

Perhaps you should ask your mum the same question?

I'm waiting for an answer to mine. WTF has pressure and temperature ratings of the tube got to do with flow rates?
 
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