Bernard also assumes I have the emissivity level set up correctly 
UFH Flow Meters
- Thread starter paddymicmac
- Start date
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I would only assume that having bought the equipment you would have learnt how to use it.
maybe the location of the transit point was not the optimum location due to the construction / room layout of the building
Maybe you haven't a clue
.The assumption might also be that I didn't take the pictures needing the figures to be accurate as the image was taken for locating and checking....
You really aught to use that free thinking hemisphere of your brain a little more
.
About your house no, I do not know if you installed the heating or it was there when you moved in.
I do however have quite a lot of information about the heating and energy systems in the houses I have visited or researched over the years. From the very scientific Philips Experimental Houses ( http://passipedia.org/basics/the_pa...sive_versus_active_measures_in_europe_america as a starter on your research journey ) to the weird and wonderful houses at Future World Mliton Keynes 1994
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An update, just FYI, I did remove the Flow Meters, (blanked with 1/2" plugs), andddddd, no that's not effective. What happens is that the first outlet port gets a lot of the flow and it diminishes at each port in the header from first to last, the Flow Meter stems in the header restrict the flow and help to restrict and therefore distribute the flow of hot water so there's more even pressure at the last port etc., I should have guessed, it's a bit like the old low-pressure plumbing we used to do year ago, but in reverse. So I re-installed the Meters and put them all on full flow, now the zones all heat well with upstairs thermostats set at 20 and the downsatirs at 25 we've got good heat throughout the house. With the 'room temperature' set at 35 on the boiler, (bear in mind that this is a theoretical number the Vitodens uses in conjunction with the outside temperature and the heating curve so that the Weather Compensation Option can decide what temperature it uses for heating water), we have heating running at between 50 and 60. I believe this higher than normal, but that's what I get for fitting floors too thick. There is an upside to thick floors tho, the heating goes off at 10pm and comes on again at 6am, at 3am this morning the room floors were still warm. I'm guessing the flooring acts like a heatsync so it's not all bad. Before anyone jumps in with 'it's too expensive', we currently pay £15.2 per month for combined gas and electricity for a 3 bed Terror Souse.
Thank you all for your comments, (they all help, at least in that they make you think), regards.
Thank you all for your comments, (they all help, at least in that they make you think), regards.
The point is BG; it doesn't matter if there's a few degrees differance.
As a 'clown' and not an 'expert' I think I'd agree with that. I do get the distinct impression that there's a fair amount of BS around underfloor heating. But it is a really nice idea and very effective. I'd do it again, and hopefully next time I'll have learned by my past mistakes.
Yeah, like you Shambo I smell BS!!
That's quality system design right there .
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