(op) what a phuking idiot, thats a lovely way to get help from professionals on here. wind your neck in you might get somewhere
UFH Flow Meters
- Thread starter paddymicmac
- Start date
Flow meters give u a visual indication of the actuall flow through each circuit. You will always get one small sub 50mtr circuit on a underfloor manifold without flow meters the pump energy will be consumed by the smallest circuit. Physics 101 water will always take the shortest line of resistance.
Generally I like to.see flow rates of 1.5-3 ltrs a minute much faster and the heat won't be dissipated it will return too fast.
I suppose you could setup a manifold with multiple k series sensors but why bother??
Generally I like to.see flow rates of 1.5-3 ltrs a minute much faster and the heat won't be dissipated it will return too fast.
I suppose you could setup a manifold with multiple k series sensors but why bother??
PullerGas, his knowledge may well be expansive, and I'm sure HIS underfloor heating is exemplary, but his people skills stink. I explained why I'm in the situation I'm in, (my own fault I know), but what I was looking for was advice on how I might overcome that, other than digging up my floors. Instead I get derision.
No I'm not a Builder, (although I do know how to push a wheelbarrow), I'm a retired Electrical Engineer.
GasWizard, no I don't think so, I was reacting to a guy who seems to be (?) more interested in throwing his weight around, rather than being sympathetic to someone with a problem. A problem which, with his attributed knowledge and experience, he might well be able to help.
hazetimesfive, I think I will remove them as that seemed to work before.
Thank you all for your inputs.
No I'm not a Builder, (although I do know how to push a wheelbarrow), I'm a retired Electrical Engineer.
GasWizard, no I don't think so, I was reacting to a guy who seems to be (?) more interested in throwing his weight around, rather than being sympathetic to someone with a problem. A problem which, with his attributed knowledge and experience, he might well be able to help.
hazetimesfive, I think I will remove them as that seemed to work before.
Thank you all for your inputs.
Read it how you will. I have tried to advise you that running water through pipes too fast is a bad thing, but you crack on.
PullerGas, his knowledge may well be expansive, and I'm sure HIS underfloor heating is exemplary, but his people skills stink. I explained why I'm in the situation I'm in, (my own fault I know), but what I was looking for was advice on how I might overcome that, other than digging up my floors. Instead I get derision.
No I'm not a Builder, (although I do know how to push a wheelbarrow), I'm a retired Electrical Engineer.
Thank you all for your inputs.
Well then, with your 32mm of wood & existing set-up; you're trying to pull 45amps @ 230vac through Bell Wire. A poorly designed installation, as you know, will never work.
Basic Skoolboy physics again; wood is not a good conductor of heat. Oh by the way I'm a Heating Engineer.
Yep - but what the fook do I know?
Well you know that there are hot spots in your floor.
And?
Look at the scales.
There does seem to be a steep gradient but without knowing if there is a rug over part of the floor one cannot exclude the possibility that the cooler areas have more insulation ( rug etc ) on the floor above the pipes. I have to say the thermal imaging of a friends DIY water under floor heating indicated a much more even distribution of temperature than the image you posted. He is not a heating engineer, his speciality is robotics and vision inspection systems.
And what construction and what design delta?
Did you not consider that the bit you've highlighted was the transit point for 5 loops and that there would be a higher concentration of pipework? And that there might need to be a gap to allow for something to support the flooring other than pipes?
No.
Did you not consider that the bit you've highlighted was the transit point for 5 loops and that there would be a higher concentration of pipework? And that there might need to be a gap to allow for something to support the flooring other than pipes?
No.
Likewise in the second picture.
Why is your flow temperature set at 35C and why so low? Mine is running 50C which gives a max floor temperature around 26C most of the time and a good transfer of heat into the room through 18mm chipboard, 'UFH' rated underlay and laminate boards. Try raising your flow temperature.
Mate, the optimum for UFH is a concrete screed & slate tiles. In most areas of the country you'd be running it on a condensing boiler or heat pump, so the lower the mean water temperature the better in most instances, I'd say. So raising the mean water temperatures would certainly not be the best thing to do!!
The clown has too much wood over his UFH!!
I'd defy anyone to feel a 6degree differance in a floor temperature by touch alone.
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