UFH Pipes - Which brand? order from?
- Thread starter Steveb21
- Start date
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Depends what you're after.
New build or extension?
Will you need a design done for multiple zones or is it just a one room kit?
New build or extension?
Will you need a design done for multiple zones or is it just a one room kit?
Email the plans off, include all measurements, what your heat source is (oil boiler, gas boiler etc), what your floor covering will be and whether you'll want wired stats or wireless.
You'll get a price back within a couple of days.
If you have a regular plumbers merchant they will have a recommendation for ufh supplier.
For something like this you could look at beneath heat or speedfit.
You'll get a price back within a couple of days.
If you have a regular plumbers merchant they will have a recommendation for ufh supplier.
For something like this you could look at beneath heat or speedfit.
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The recognised way to install ufh is to run the pipes at the required centres, connect to manifold, fill and leave pressurised before screeding over.
Several different types of pipe, manifold connections will obviously need to match.
Several different types of pipe, manifold connections will obviously need to match.
Pipe types are normally Polybutylene, PEX or MLC and domestic systems tend to be 10mm (in overlay type UFH) and either 15mm or 16mm in screed.
As already mentioned, there are plenty of companies / manufacturers that will help with system design, length of circuits, pipe centres etc.
As already mentioned, there are plenty of companies / manufacturers that will help with system design, length of circuits, pipe centres etc.
Thanks.
Issue i have is that I have ongoing extension work. I have the 2 area's mentioned that need UFH and screed so I can then start boarding out the walls. Whilst i am getting this done i have a side extension which will also require UFH and screed (at a later date though).
Where the manifold will be installed is not ready yet. I assume the pipes can be pressured/tested without connecting to a manifold system?
Issue i have is that I have ongoing extension work. I have the 2 area's mentioned that need UFH and screed so I can then start boarding out the walls. Whilst i am getting this done i have a side extension which will also require UFH and screed (at a later date though).
Where the manifold will be installed is not ready yet. I assume the pipes can be pressured/tested without connecting to a manifold system?
I used polypipe, which is normal poly/pex type pipe, from memory 15mm, was advised to steer away from the pipe that has aluminium in it, as it's harder to fit, if doing on your own. I used the red pipe trays, it just clips in.
You need to get whatever pipe down and pressurised and left for a while (days) before you screed, so manifold/pump will need connecting, unless your plumber can suggest and alternative way.
You need to get whatever pipe down and pressurised and left for a while (days) before you screed, so manifold/pump will need connecting, unless your plumber can suggest and alternative way.
I actually prefer the mlcp (aluminium barrier) pipe because it stays where you put it.
Each to their own of course.
We just use clip track and then clip the corners.
Each to their own of course.
We just use clip track and then clip the corners.
Thanks again all. I have reached out to a few online UFH providers and have sent details over.
Question:
If the manifold is installed at the desired location and the UFH pipes are laid as designed by the supplier. Before laying the screed, to purge the system does it need to be connected to hot water, or can this be done manually (cold water) using the filling and drain off valve to flush the pipes through with water to purge all the air from the system. I will be adding the hot and cold pipes from boiler at a later date.
Question:
If the manifold is installed at the desired location and the UFH pipes are laid as designed by the supplier. Before laying the screed, to purge the system does it need to be connected to hot water, or can this be done manually (cold water) using the filling and drain off valve to flush the pipes through with water to purge all the air from the system. I will be adding the hot and cold pipes from boiler at a later date.
- Pressure test at 2 bar for 10 minutes, check for leaks.
- If there is no problem, then test the system at 10 bar for a further 10 minutes.
- If there are no leaks after that, then leave the system pressurised, but reduce the pressure to between 3-5 bar until the screed goes down.
- Once screed is laid, then the pressure can be reduced to the working pressure which is typically between 1-2 bar.
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Once the manifold is hung and isolated and the pipes laid to the design, fill using a hose off the mains water supply onto the manifold fill point. Second hose to drain.
Fill each loop individually until it runs continuously and free of air.
Fill each loop individually until it runs continuously and free of air.
This is with cold water, correct?
and then test and leave pressure in system until the screed goes down?
Yes, just use a garden hose off your outside tap.
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