Unable to bleed - will it work ok if sealed?

[mark-essex]

Hope someone can help me here?

My room has 2 double radiators, one of the rads has a bleed nipple that has rounded off, and try as I might it will not come out (I've tried drilling it out but it's on the verge of damaging the thread now). The nipple is directly in the radiator, not as I've read elsewhere in a section that can be removed.

The double radiator has 2 bleed valves in it, they face inwards (which is why it was difficult to repair).

I cannot afford to replace the double radiator, what I would like to do is seal where the nipple was and not have a bleed valve there anymore. My room is 'over-radiated' anyway, and not being a DIY expert my thinking is that sealing off one nipple will at worst just mean that the front (or one half) of the double radiator will not fill with water fully (or at all?).

Will this be OK to do? Is the scenario I have described above correct? I am happy to have just one half of the rad working, I just want to make sure that I won't damage any more of the central heating system.

Thanks in advance to anyone that can help.

Mark, London, UK.

 

[Fluffster]

Mark
I would not leave air in the system as this will effect the circulation and carry air to other areas of your system.
As I am sure you know air water and steel means rust!!
Best trying to get that bleed screw out even if it means damaging the thread you can use some ptfe to hopefully seal it again.
Or just lock it down (close each valve) and do not use it.
Radiators are not to expensive and you may even pick one up on e bay cheap maybe even a single panel.
Good luck
Pete

 

[mark-essex]

I was thinking of replacing it with a single one (half the price), but Im no plumber and it would mean moving the pipes because they currently come out from the floor too far away from thw wall just to replace it with a single.

I can drill the bleed screw out, but no way could I replace it or even retap it because being a double there is no straight access to the scew.

My other alternative would be to do away with the radiator all together (thats actually a good option for me), but would I be right in thinking that would mean draining the whole system? Is that a major job? I can see a drain pipe fitted in the pipe below the combi boiler, is it just a case of fitting a hose to that and opening the valve...then leave until it runs dry? Cut back the rad pipes and seal off, then refill the system with the bleed valves open?

Thanks for your reply Pete. Mark

PS: The radiator is currently off the wall for redecorating

 

[Fluffster]

Mark
Fitting a single rad would be ideal, you will find the wall brackets can be attached to the wall to match the distance required from the wall.

To remove totally as your system is a combi and so is sealed under pressure you have to close down all the rads and also the flow and return pipes at the boiler then open the rad valve slowly to release pressure in the pipe.
Cut the pipe down and attach stop ends (compression fittings not push fit)
Pete

 

[mark-essex]

Thanks Pete.

I have already taken the rad off the wall, I just closed down the thermostat valve one end, closed the other valve (under the plastic cap) by hand, then undone the nuts, drained, and lifted off.

Was that not the right thing to do....I'm a bit confused now reading what you say about sealed under pressure? Which rad valve are you talking about (opening slowly to release pressure)...if the rad is already removed?

So I can't now drain the system, fit stop ends...and refill?

Sorry if I'm being thick!

 

[mark-essex]

Just thought of a way of expressing my confusion a bit simpler!

What I'm trying to say is if the radiator is already removed, what is the difference between fitting ti back on and closing both valves and not using it (as you previously suggested), and draining the system, closing off the 2 disused pipes and refilling?

 

[Fluffster]

You trying to confuse me now on a hot humid day lol.
If you replaced the rad and did nothing the system should work fine.
However if you opened the rad valves the pressure in the system would fall and you would have to top up at the boiler to set it at 1 bar or whatever your manual says.

The rad is off yes but the pressure is still in the pipes as you closed off each ean to the rad.

What you done to remove the rad was fine but to cap off you would have to release the pressure in the pipework.
Pete

 

[mark-essex]

Got it! Thank you

If you was here I'd share a beer with you in the garden!

Thanks Pete, your a gentleman.