Under cabinet lighting question

[tataylor1]

Hi all.

Appreciate some advice on this, I haven't been able to find exactly the right answer on other posts.

I would like to replace some under cabinet lights I have that are wired to the lighting circuit controlled by one of the three wall switches (single box with three switches, controlling two main lights and these under cab lights). The under cabinet lights are wired to a junction box mounted beneath the wall cupboards.

The new lights I would like come with a plug and a little transformer box. Can I chop off the plug and wire the transformer to my junction box and mount this underneath the cupboard?

Can anyone advise me the best way to go about this from start to finish? Something like - remove existing lights, check voltage at junction box with multimeter, wire new lights to junction box?

The transformer on the new lights I would like has a 240V input with 12 V output on an 80VA transformer. If I went for fluorescent tube lighting do they require transformers also?

Thanks in advance for any advice you can give.

Cheers.

 

[riveralt]

The new lights I would like come with a plug and a little transformer box. Can I chop off the plug and wire the transformer to my junction box and mount this underneath the cupboard?

When you say plug - do you a fused plug or the connector that connects to the transformer.
If it is fused plug you will probably invalidate the guarantee on the lights but also that plug will be fused for the size of cable it controls - wire it directly into the jb and I would imagine you will be looking at 6Amp protection for possible 2Amp cable - which could cause a fish smell.

You will need to better describe, photograph or give us reference to the manual to be able to answer your other questions.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

wire it directly into the jb and I would imagine you will be looking at 6Amp protection for possible 2Amp cable - which could cause a fish smell.

How?

 

[tataylor1]

Hi again riveralt thanks for replying.

Its a fused plug, 3 pin. Then cable from this to the transformer, and cable from the transformer to the lights.

By fishy smell I assume you mean burning? Or do you mean something smells fishy as in its a cock up?

The current lights work by being wired directly to the junction box though, with the transformer built into the casing of the light. So how are they working OK? They are going something like ceiling rose > junction box > cable to transformer/light.

I suspect the previous owner also chopped the plug off, as the lights power via a figure 8 connection (like those for portable radios/stereos) and these typically have plugs on the other end.

These are the lights I'm considering, though lots of people on here seem to rate fluorescent tube lights
http://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-wedge-downlight-kit-gloss-white-20w-pack-of-3/98120

Thanks very much for your time.

 

[tataylor1]

wire it directly into the jb and I would imagine you will be looking at 6Amp protection for possible 2Amp cable - which could cause a fish smell.

How?

I think he's saying it could overheat? Melt sheathing perhaps?

 

[riveralt]

Is it a standard 3/5/13Amp fused plug or is it a 5amp plug like this:
http://www.screwfix.com/p/round-pin-plug-5a-white/22877.

I cannot find any instructions for these lights online but I would imagine that removing the plug that came with the equipment would invalidate the warranty.

How do the instructions advise you to fit these lamps - off a socket circuit or off a lighting circuit?

 

[riveralt]

Hang on - I have just seen the other picture on the Screwfix website and it looks like it is a standard plug fitted - with the expectation that it will be connected to a socket.

You seem to indicate that the power source is the lighting circuit.
In which case, if possible, I would try and get the power cable to the top of the cabinets - particularly since you have a transformer to hide as well.

If you can then you could fit a 5Amp socket/backbox - swop the standard plug with a 5 amp plug and away you go.

 

[winston1]

I cannot find any instructions for these lights online but I would imagine that removing the plug that came with the equipment would invalidate the warranty.

Why should it?

 

[tataylor1]

If you can then you could fit a 5Amp socket/backbox - swop the standard plug with a 5 amp plug and away you go.

Okay thanks very much. I will look into this solution. I can ge tthe power cable to the top of the cabs but they are 920 high so they finish a few mm from the ceiling with no service voids (Hello Ikea). I will look at hiding them within the top of the cupboard perhaps.

Sorry I couldn't give you anything from the product instructions, I didn't want to buy the lights until I knew they could be of use.

I will do a little more reading on the forum re: fluorescent tube lights as my partner would prefer them, she might win if I find these to be an easier installation.

Thanks for your help again.

 

[riveralt]

Okay thanks very much. I will look into this solution. I can ge tthe power cable to the top of the cabs but they are 920 high so they finish a few mm from the ceiling with no service voids (Hello Ikea). I will look at hiding them within the top of the cupboard perhaps.

For Ikea 'voidless' cupboards I use 16mm ² mini trunking - tucked into one of the back corners - small hole at top and bottom of the cabinet and you are able to run the cables up through the trunking inside the cabinets - neat finish.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/tower-mini-trunking-16mm-x-16mm-x-2m/26052

 

[tataylor1]

Useful tip, thanks once again.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

no service voids (Hello Ikea).

TBF, although they are rightly criticised for void-less base units, I don't think that anybody makes wall units with voids behind them, do they?

[EDIT] - apparently they do - see below - my mistake - [/EDIT]

 

[stillp]

I don't think that anybody makes wall units with voids behind them, do they?

I have a B & Q kitchen, fitted about 4 - 5 years ago, and some of the wall units have a void behind, some don't!

 

[tataylor1]

no service voids (Hello Ikea).

TBF, although they are rightly criticised for void-less base units, I don't think that anybody makes wall units with voids behind them, do they?

Here's one I found after a 10 second google hunt.

http://www.wjskitchenwarehouse.co.uk/dev43new/Wall-units-900mm-High.html

It lists features as:
Carcase height is 720mm
Supplied with 2 x shelves
18mm Carcase with 8mm back panel
clip on off hinges supplied with euro screws pre mounted
All wall units have a service void of 15mm to the back
Easy hang wall system
Carcases are color co-ordinated
All suppiled flat pack
Egger boards used

Not sure if it's standard or not.

 

[Iggifer]

all the units in my kitchen have service voids, don't know what make they are, been in about 5 years