I have a double winder staircase leading to my new attic conversion. I want to plaster the underside but it's a very complex shape which seems to defy plasterboard. Any suggestions as to a method to case it out ready for two coat skim?
under stairs
- Thread starter peak2peak
- Start date
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Sounds like an
'Elephant's Ar$e" , if you can't get it inot decent planes with plasterboard.
Noggins in to take screws. Staple clear polythene tight to these. Screw EML on next, lapping joints. You might need a bit of tying wire hooked thru , to firm it up.
A pr1ck coat of bonding first (just a coat to firm up the eml and take the next coat, It does not have to cover all the surface),
Let it set, then fill out with another coat of bonding until you get a pleasing shape.
You can skim this and might need a sponge to get in around the shape as the finish firms up..bit of a knack to this, but don't worry and you will be okay to get it near enough because......when the finish is set , you can use a bit of filler and rub down any areas you are not happy with.
'Elephant's Ar$e" , if you can't get it inot decent planes with plasterboard.
Noggins in to take screws. Staple clear polythene tight to these. Screw EML on next, lapping joints. You might need a bit of tying wire hooked thru , to firm it up.
A pr1ck coat of bonding first (just a coat to firm up the eml and take the next coat, It does not have to cover all the surface),
Let it set, then fill out with another coat of bonding until you get a pleasing shape.
You can skim this and might need a sponge to get in around the shape as the finish firms up..bit of a knack to this, but don't worry and you will be okay to get it near enough because......when the finish is set , you can use a bit of filler and rub down any areas you are not happy with.
Thank you for taking the time to respond, it's much appreciated. Is EML available as a roll or sheet material? I'm aware of it but have never used it. What is the point of the clear polythene as a base?
Sorry to be thick but my old dad used to say 'if you don't ask, you don't learn' - which on paper should make me a genius (still waiting for the diploma)
Thanks again for your interest.
frank
Sorry to be thick but my old dad used to say 'if you don't ask, you don't learn' - which on paper should make me a genius (still waiting for the diploma)
Thanks again for your interest.
frank
As the man says -- There are only stupid answers ........
Eml in sheets is best for this. You can get rolls for other uses.
The clear plastic is for two reasons
1 - it stops you pushing all the plaster through the eml mesh (making a "swallow's nest" on the inside).
It's only clear so you can see what you are fixing to. Anything will do you, eg a rubble bag
2- it keeps the moisture out of the timber - not really critical for the amount you will be using.
Eml in sheets is best for this. You can get rolls for other uses.
The clear plastic is for two reasons
1 - it stops you pushing all the plaster through the eml mesh (making a "swallow's nest" on the inside).
It's only clear so you can see what you are fixing to. Anything will do you, eg a rubble bag
2- it keeps the moisture out of the timber - not really critical for the amount you will be using.
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The idea of the clear polythene is, it acts as a barrier between the wet plaster and the absorbent wooden noggins. The spiral is roughly formed/shaped with the noggins, ready for the wire lath, which by the way comes in sheets. I've never used polythene as a barrier,, i cover the noggins with bitumin paint, with a small amount of sharp sand mixed through it. When you put on the wire lath (eml), you must get it as tight as possible, to avoid any sagging when you apply the pricking coat of bonding plaster. Once the pricking coat has set, i put on another coat of bonding plaster, scratch it, then let that set. By this time, you will begin to see the shape of the spiral. Putting on the 3rd and final coat of bonding will give you the float coat surface, ready for the multi finish. A lot of this you will be able to get using a normal plastering trowel, but you will also need as Micilin said,, other "tools" ie, sponge, smaller scrapers, etc, but i found that one of the most affective "tools" that i use when plastering a spiral, is one of those flexible plastic paint guards that painters use along the top of the skirting. They are about 16 or 17 inches long, and are great for getting into the twists and turns of the spiral. I have even "troweled up" the tight, inside parts of the spiral with it. They cost a couple of quid each or so from B*Q, but the work they save me is without question.
As a genuine final comment to you Peak2peak, and with respect,, i can't even imagine you getting anywhere with this job. If,, as i suspect, you are a novice at this,, then it's a mammoth task you're undertaking here, and, not "if", but "when" it goes pearshaped, it'll be too late. You will then need to take the whole thing to bits, and get someone in to do it for you. I'd think before you try to do this yourself. This is not a job for a skimmer,,, this is a job for a "plasterer". Good luck to you anyway.
As a genuine final comment to you Peak2peak, and with respect,, i can't even imagine you getting anywhere with this job. If,, as i suspect, you are a novice at this,, then it's a mammoth task you're undertaking here, and, not "if", but "when" it goes pearshaped, it'll be too late. You will then need to take the whole thing to bits, and get someone in to do it for you. I'd think before you try to do this yourself. This is not a job for a skimmer,,, this is a job for a "plasterer". Good luck to you anyway.
totally agree with the method, but just shows how many jobs can be approached from either end, as I have always called it an "elephants head".
I wanna post a big thank you to both micilin and roughcaster for the trouble they took with my problem. I am so impressed with your generosity and I take on board all you say - and you're right, I am just a skimmer - but a pretty good one. I accept the job at hand is a nightmare as I've seen a similar job done by a spread at a friends house, and that was not pretty. I realise it could create more trouble than pleasure but I'll have a go. In my experience these things can usually be undone, and it's only experiences that provide experience.
Sooooo grateful fellas.
frank
Sooooo grateful fellas.
frank
can i be so bold to suggest riven lath (chestnut is great) it folows curves far nicer than eml, lasts longer and doesnt shread your bloody fingures cutting it with snips. plus the slump through the gaps in the lath form a much stronger acnhor that the feeble nibs formed between the eml.
Thanks for your input spc - much appreciated. I've spent a day trying to locate someone who can supply eml, am I going to find riven lath any easier? Got any ideas where I can pick it up?
Have a good weekend
frank
Have a good weekend
frank
If you Google "chestnut riven lath", you'll find the suppliers. Normally, eml is readily available at nearly all builder's merchants, b*q, etc,, so it's strange you're having a problem getting some.
Riven Oak lath, Riven Chestnut lath etc are specialised products, so would have to be sourced and ordered,,, unless you live near a supplier.
Riven Oak lath, Riven Chestnut lath etc are specialised products, so would have to be sourced and ordered,,, unless you live near a supplier.
Here's a link for 200 feet of riven chestnut lath.
http://www.ecomerchant.co.uk/content/riven-chestnut-lath-bundle
http://www.ecomerchant.co.uk/content/riven-chestnut-lath-bundle
riven lath.....
try the skillington workshop near grantham lincolshire.
Talk to philip gaches, he will help.
Tell him J from stamford Plastering contractors sent you, He'll look after you.
P.S. use stainless ring shank nails to fix, nothing worse than rust bleeding through. Plasterboard screws always split the laths and pre drilling is a ball ache
try the skillington workshop near grantham lincolshire.
Talk to philip gaches, he will help.
Tell him J from stamford Plastering contractors sent you, He'll look after you.
P.S. use stainless ring shank nails to fix, nothing worse than rust bleeding through. Plasterboard screws always split the laths and pre drilling is a ball ache
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