Upgrading shower pumps

[CaptainJack88]

We're in the stages of renovation, and we need to desperately sort our shower situation. We've had a new boiler recently, so please don't suggest a combi Also, is isn't possible at the moment to replace the cylinder with an unvented. We had enough joint leaks with the heating being pressurized and the rest of the house has been freshly decorated.

Currently running a pressurised heating system, and an vented hot water system with 2 shower pumps to power the ensuite and main bathroom showers.
Unfortunately this looks like a particular bad DIY job. The plumbing is somewhat of a mess, and the shower pumps are in a word, noisy. Nothing seems to be fixed down, and they're positioned on a hollow floor so you can hear them throughout the house. The airing cupboard is also next to the master bedroom, and since there are varying morning start times, we need this sorted otherwise some people will be getting an early wake up call from the noise!

I'm also sure one of the pumps for the main bathroom has had it. The water simply dribbles out like there is no pressure.

You might also notice that there are 15mm pipes running to the showers. Not sure if this is right, as the connectors on the pumps are 22m

Current plumbing mess:

Existing Pumps:

Now plumbing isn't our problem, nor is joinery or anything else, I'm really just asking for some recommendations.

What shower pump, or shower pumps can I get to resolve both the pressure issue in the main bathroom, and also the noise?

I plan on creating a soundproof box to put the pumps in, and fixing this to the floor properly to stop it from rattling the house to the ground

 

[muggles]

Get a Stuart Turner Monsoon pump, 3.0 bar is a good place to start. Be aware that boxing them in will invalidate the warranty as the motor needs good airflow to keep cool

Some re-piping wouldn't go amiss...

 

[CaptainJack88]

Get a Stuart Turner Monsoon pump, 3.0 bar is a good place to start. Be aware that boxing them in will invalidate the warranty as the motor needs good airflow to keep cool

Some re-piping wouldn't go amiss...

Ah didn't know that! OK well as long as it's quiet, these sound like someone is drilling inside!

The existing ones are 1.5bar, so hopefully the pipework will cope with 3bar...

 

[CaptainJack88]

Get a Stuart Turner Monsoon pump, 3.0 bar is a good place to start. Be aware that boxing them in will invalidate the warranty as the motor needs good airflow to keep cool

Some re-piping wouldn't go amiss...

Rang Stuart Turner. None of their pumps support 15mm pipe to the pump, it must be 22mm.
Why did the previous owners have to put in 15mm piping

 

[St0rmer66]

Looks like they're FED by 22mm and outlet is 15mm to me. Might be acceptable if you told them that (certainly better to have a good feed).

 

[CaptainJack88]

Looks like they're FED by 22mm and outlet is 15mm to me. Might be acceptable if you told them that (certainly better to have a good feed).

Unfortunately not. Input is 15mm, you can see the 22mm outlet on the tank drop to a 15mm before going to the pumps.
15mm outlet is fine, but there needs to be a 22mm input from gravity fed systems to allow for enough flow

 

[CaptainJack88]

OK - had a better look at this again tonight.

Is there any stopping me putting a T-joint in the 22mm cold feed to the cylinder to power the shower pumps cold input, or should the shower pump have it's own dedicated feed? The only problem I can see is the hot water tank still needs the water pressure of gravity to push out the hot water, and if I put a T-joint in this for the pump, it might reduce the pressure coming out of the tank.

Hot water wise shouldn't be an issue as I can just replace the existing 22m T-joint on the hot out, and put 22mm to the pump, however does this need a flange or something on it?

 

[muggles]

You need a dedicated cold feed from the loft tank - the feed to the cylinder should only feed the cylinder and nothing else.

You should really install a Surrey Flange (or Stuart Turner flange) onto the cylinder for the hot draw-off

 

[CaptainJack88]

You need a dedicated cold feed from the loft tank - the feed to the cylinder should only feed the cylinder and nothing else.

You should really install a Surrey Flange (or Stuart Turner flange) onto the cylinder for the hot draw-off

Pretty much what I thought. Guess the second question is, can the 22mm mains feed to the header tank be Tee'd and split to the shower pump? I imagine the same answer due to having different pressures in the pump

 

[CaptainJack88]

Right, looks like our only working shower pump is giving up too so time to prioritise!

I'll order this Stuart Turner pump, unless anyone suggests something else?:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...tiveASIN=B002KGETUY&linkCode=as2&tag=gameu-21

Then i'll drain the header tank and install a 22mm copper pipe cold feed straight to the pump.

Question: At the moment, theres a 22mm or 28mm pipe coming out the top of the cylinder with a tee, one to hot taps, one to showers. Do I need to install a flange into the cylinder, if so, what type?

Depending on the replies to the above questions, I'll either put a flange in the cylinder, and then replace the tee joint with a 22mm one and have a feed straight to the pump. I'll then plumb the 2 lots of hot/cold 15mm pipes into the pump which go to the showers

 

[CaptainJack88]

Would appreciate any advice on post above. If not, i'll just order that pump. Currently awaiting the Stuart Turner TE flange too

 

[muggles]

https://www.bellabathrooms.co.uk/st...standard-twin-3-0-bar-positive-head-pump.html Cheaper here, and BB are a good company to deal with

Sounds like you've got it sussed

 

[CaptainJack88]

https://www.bellabathrooms.co.uk/st...standard-twin-3-0-bar-positive-head-pump.html Cheaper here, and BB are a good company to deal with

Sounds like you've got it sussed

Thanks Muggles. Will have to order from Amazon as its next day delivery with Prime and could do with it by Friday/Saturday!

 

[CaptainJack88]

We're looking at doing this but seem to run into an issue. The top of our tank appears to be male thread that is part of the cylinder itself.

Any ideas? I imagine this is a fairly old tank, maybe around 20 years old.

 

[St0rmer66]

York flange