Urgent help / advice removing a capacitor from Riello burner

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Hi, can anyone assist in the best method to remove the capacitor. I know it is the screw type but the plastic casing is turning whilst the thread just moves a quarter turn. I have applied spray but no luck. Would it be easier to break the casing open and then replace capacitor.
Would appreciate urgent response as about to start the job. Thanks
 
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Just get rid of the capacitor in any way you can - it has a 2 wire connection so can be clipped to the motor with cable ties if need be.
John :)
 
Have broken off the capacitor but the thread is solid despite drilling and using a screw extractor. Have lubed it again but its just solid. I'll persist a bit longer with this method but the adjustable is even starting to slip on the screw extractor where the screw is soo tight. Any further thoughts appreciated. ................Would it be ok to drill out the damaged screw and secure the capacitor with epoxy or does the screw thread need to be metal on metal for the circuit ? Thanks
 
If the capacitor has two wires connecting it, the nut you are having problems with is only there to secure the cap. So, cable ties will get you out of a pickle.
John :)
 
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Question for Burnerman or anybody that can help. I have succesfully replaced the capacitor, motor and fan assembly but have kept the original oil pump which appears ok. Fired up the boiler and all working nicely and then like a numpty realised I hadn't opened the oil line valve and just as I did this the boiler locked out. School boy error I know but I have tried bleeding out the air on the oil pump by removing the lower nut but still no joy. Should I bleed from this screw or at the top rear of the pump where the flexible pipe comes out. Thanks in advance - How frustrating after finding out that the old motor was pretty much seized and it was running well for all of 3 minutes! Please help :confused:
 
As you face the rbl pump,the bottom left hand of the pump there is a nut,undo that gently until get oil coming out,dont take it out all the way.

If your confident then strike the boiler up while still venting, the pressure should increase,tighten nut up and see what happens,repeat till you get all the air out.good luck.
 
I have tried as you suggested about 9 times now after lock out and while the oil does come out it is a bit foamy. Still wont fire up. We are expecting an oil delivery in next couple of days as we are a bit low but not so low that the level is below the burner. Would a much higher oil level allow the pump to bleed more easily although I will persist with it today? Thanks
 
Assuming there's no tiger loop - Slappers method is the usual way, but if you want, undo the flexible pipe that goes to the burner pump,, put the end in a tray or bottle and let the oil flow through that until its clear. Its good to have someone on hand to man the tank valve though!
John :)
 
I have tried as you suggested about 9 times now after lock out and while the oil does come out it is a bit foamy. Still wont fire up. We are expecting an oil delivery in next couple of days as we are a bit low but not so low that the level is below the burner. Would a much higher oil level allow the pump to bleed more easily although I will persist with it today? Thanks

Yes,the higher the oil level the more pressure,also be on the look out for any water in your oil.
 
Assuming there's no tiger loop - Slappers method is the usual way, but if you want, undo the flexible pipe that goes to the burner pump,, put the end in a tray or bottle and let the oil flow through that until its clear. Its good to have someone on hand to man the tank valve though!
John :)

I've had no success so far by undoing the nut on the pump and trying to bleed the air out and it sounds as though there is no spray of oil reaching the burner to be ignited so definately seems to be an air lock. My oil level is not much higher than the burner but it is definately higher. I ordered oil last week but this isn't due until next Wednesday which is obviously of some concern now if I need a much higher level to give adequate pressure to force the oil through and the air out!

I will try undoing the flexible pipe which I believe to be the one from the tank via the filter and valve which feeds oil to the bottom of the pump. Is this correct as opposed to the copper one that feeds oil from pump to burner? Can I also please check the reason someone needs to man the tank valve as so far I have left this in the open position to try and draw the oil through? It also within reaching distance from the boiler. Thankyou
 
Good evening!
I'm presuming that your oil supply is gravity fed?
Anyway, its the flexible pipe from the tank pipe to the pump that you disconnect...if you can see, there should be an arrow on the pump pointing inwards.
Undo this pipe. Allow oil to run until there is no air evident, then couple it back to the pump and try for a start.
I only mentioned someone to man the tank on / off valve in case spillage was likely.
Any help?
John :)
 
Good evening!
I'm presuming that your oil supply is gravity fed?
Anyway, its the flexible pipe from the tank pipe to the pump that you disconnect...if you can see, there should be an arrow on the pump pointing inwards.
Undo this pipe. Allow oil to run until there is no air evident, then couple it back to the pump and try for a start.
I only mentioned someone to man the tank on / off valve in case spillage was likely.
Any help?
John :)

Good evening,
Yes can confirm the supply is gravity fed. I will try undoing this pipe to see if there is good flow and then go for re-start.
Its a real pain at the moment as the boiler is old. Its a Boultier Camry Combi and not very efficient at all but at the moment needs must etc as we have a baby and a toddler in the house but no heating or hot water. I am 2/3 through a heating and ventilation course myself and yet I hope sensible enough not to tackle anything to technical without adequate knowledge. The boiler is probably 18 years old and as soon as I can gather funds I would like to replace it with an external Combi Condensing boiler, any recommendations to make or model at all? This is a job that I expect will fall into the hands of somebody with experience even though I would be happy to do all the pipework myself but doubt anybody would want just part of the job. I'm hoping our boiler will qualify for the scrappage scheme but for now our desperate situation is to get it running again. Thanks again and I will let you know how I get on. Pete
 
Best of luck with it Pete - if the oil will flow by gravity then I'm sure the burner will restart. There is a pump that we can use for really awkward systems but I hope its not needed on yours.
Best wishes to you and yours.
John :)
 
Just disconnected the flexible pipe.......no oil at all. Worked my way back to the boiler side of the filter which is approx 20cm off the floor, undid the compression nut and removed the pipe, nothing either. It definately looks as though we need a much higher level of oil to push it through. I cant see that the filter is clogged as it was all working ok earlier this week before the motor finally seized up yesterday. Our plastic 1000ltr tank was only installed a few years back and whereas our previous galvanised tank was raised up on a brick bed about 12" off the floor the new plastic one is only on council paving slabs! This must contribute to the issues of low gravity pressure when the oil level is around 25% or lower. Thanks for all your help I guess we will have to wait and see how the new oil delivery helps out next week. BRRRRRRRRRR for us until then!
 
I cant see that the filter is clogged as it was all working ok earlier this week before the motor finally seized up yesterday.

Nothing to lose by checking the filter, I'd imagine it's much colder now than Monday and if there's some water there it'll freeze.
Are there any joints between the tank and the boiler that you'd feel confident of opening? I find it sometimes helps to tease it through this way or blowing some air back towards the tank sometimes shifts an airlock.
 

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