Using a router to cut aluminium?
- Thread starter Big_Nige
- Start date
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a wood router will tear the aluminium to bits Id think!
My suggestion is to either get a 15mm metal hole saw that fits in a drill to cut out the majority of metal then hacksaw/file the bits inbetween to give you a straight slot, or take it to a local machine shop and get them to do it on a milling machine.
My suggestion is to either get a 15mm metal hole saw that fits in a drill to cut out the majority of metal then hacksaw/file the bits inbetween to give you a straight slot, or take it to a local machine shop and get them to do it on a milling machine.
I can only imagine it would tear/rip.
Think a router is too fast.
With a cheap bit, slowest speed and caution, I might be inclined to at least test the theory.
How many and how long are these slots to be ?
How accurate do they need to be ?
What's it for ?
additinal suggestions..
metal nibbler (but expensive for a one-off project
rasp - if you can get a 15mm ne and it fits in the router ?
again slowest speed and nibble away
Think a router is too fast.
With a cheap bit, slowest speed and caution, I might be inclined to at least test the theory.
How many and how long are these slots to be ?
How accurate do they need to be ?
What's it for ?
additinal suggestions..
metal nibbler (but expensive for a one-off project
rasp - if you can get a 15mm ne and it fits in the router ?
again slowest speed and nibble away
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Clamp the Aluminium between 2 peices of wood - tightly then try the slowest router speed . . .
Never tried this but it seems to me it might stop it ripping.
Never tried this but it seems to me it might stop it ripping.
Find a local sheetmetal shop, they will pierce the slots for a nominal charge.
Trend, for example, list router cutters for aluminium in their range. I believe a coolant is normally required. You might be able to improvise something for this, or do without and take your time to do a small amount of cutting.
I would be inclined to try it with a TCT wood bit, on some scrap to see what result it produces. I often use a TCT circular saw to cut small section aluminium, with no problems. Eye protection is highly desirable!
I would be inclined to try it with a TCT wood bit, on some scrap to see what result it produces. I often use a TCT circular saw to cut small section aluminium, with no problems. Eye protection is highly desirable!
First off, forget the router idea unless you've got a friend videoing it for youtube. It'll snag and if you're lucky, just snap the bit.
It depends on the finish you require. A drill, jigsaw and a couple of files will get you a decent finish, but if you want a proper job, take the sheet to an engineering workshop and get them to mill the slot with a slot drill. Having said this, you don't say how big the sheet is - if it's large, you'll struggle to support it on a milling machine.
It depends on the finish you require. A drill, jigsaw and a couple of files will get you a decent finish, but if you want a proper job, take the sheet to an engineering workshop and get them to mill the slot with a slot drill. Having said this, you don't say how big the sheet is - if it's large, you'll struggle to support it on a milling machine.
Is there an echo in here? 
Nige - of course it's posible to use a router on aluminium.
The trick is supporting the workpiece - 2mm sheet needs to be fixed to a timber backing sheet (ply, mdf or similar) using lots of strips of 1" double-sided sticky tape, or better still 3M Spray Mount (aerosol adhesive which will allow you to separate the ali from the timber backing without bending the metal, glue residue removed with a solvent - white spirit or similar). You cannot just clamp the edges of the ali as it'll 'lift' in the centre when you're working
Source the appropriate cutter (slot drill) and lubricate with paraffin applied with a small brush. Good fence or guide is also critical
The trick is supporting the workpiece - 2mm sheet needs to be fixed to a timber backing sheet (ply, mdf or similar) using lots of strips of 1" double-sided sticky tape, or better still 3M Spray Mount (aerosol adhesive which will allow you to separate the ali from the timber backing without bending the metal, glue residue removed with a solvent - white spirit or similar). You cannot just clamp the edges of the ali as it'll 'lift' in the centre when you're working
Source the appropriate cutter (slot drill) and lubricate with paraffin applied with a small brush. Good fence or guide is also critical
Get the video camera ready.
If you decide to do it, forget the paraffin - you won't be needing coolant...... plasters yes, but not coolant.
Milling and routering are definitely not the right processes for 2 m/m aluminium.
If you do not wish to find a sheetmetal shop, who would pierce the slots for you, do the following.....
Buy one of these at 15 m/m dia, these use an allen key to pierce the aluminium.
View media item 3843
You then pierce two holes 15 m/m dia, and then join up with a fine bladed jigsaw, to produce your slot.
If you do not wish to find a sheetmetal shop, who would pierce the slots for you, do the following.....
Buy one of these at 15 m/m dia, these use an allen key to pierce the aluminium.
View media item 3843
You then pierce two holes 15 m/m dia, and then join up with a fine bladed jigsaw, to produce your slot.
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