Using a trimmer/router

[Keitai]

The guide which fits on the trimmer/router is too far away to use for hinges on doors. How do you set that up when cutting for hinges?

What bit would I use for cutting a groove and for hinges? I think the 1/4 inch one I have in is wrong. I guess they wont take 1/2 inch bits.

 

[big-all]

you dont seem to understand the cutter or set up
a cutter with a roller bearing will need no attachments and only work on the face off the work with no plunge
iff you require a groove or captive cut [into a hole or hollow] you need a plunge router a jig and a guide bush
for a pocket like a hinge require a jig a matched guide bush and a matched plunge cutter without a bearing and fully set up correctly before entering jig on two plains side to side and back to front [no plunge]action as the third plain

 

[Deleted member 174758]

You don't do hinge recesses with a guide fence at all. When hanging one off doors I generally mark out the recesses (combi square, pencil then a sharp chisel to mark rhe edges) and hog away the bulk of the waste with a straight cutter, something like a 10 or 12mm diameter cutter (on a 1/4 in shank), don't go bigger than 12mm. These cutters must NOT be fitted with a guide bearing like the one you illustrate - that is a template routing bit and has a completely different function. The last bit of remaining wood into the corners and edges is cleaned out with a sharp chisel, ideally 25mm wide or wider, working to the lines that you originally cut with the chisel after you'd set out the hinge positions.

An alternative, which is only really worthwhile if you are doing multiple doors, is to make up a routing template and to use the router with a guide bush installed in the base. Youdo not need a plunge base to do this,although a larger sub base than the rather small one you are supplied with is advisable. As you don't yet understand fences or routing I am a tad reluctant to go through that process here at this moment

The roller guide fence is solely for use when trimming laminates and requires practice to become proficient. I would not recommend its' use for beginners

The straight fence is for forming edges (profiling, rebating, chsmfering, etc) using cutters which do not have a guide bearing mounted directly on the cutter. It can handle grooves, v-cuts, etc near to the edge, but the range is not very great

If you want to see the sort of range of cutters available Google "wealden tool" and mooch around their site

 

[Keitai]

I just bought the 12mm straight cutter from my local trade shop. Spoke to chippy in there. The guy in the shop showed me how to set fence up to the width of hinge and set depth then the sides I do with my own eye. He showed my jigs one super expensive £265 and another £40 but said most set fence to hinge width.

I've used a normal router before but a few safety questions. Is it always left to right due to clockwise rotation of blade. And unlike normal router there doesn't seem to be any handles on it so where do I hold it.

Is it always left right then lift out and move from left to right? 2mm depth increase on each pass. Goggles, ear defenders and protectors for genitals then off I go?

 

[Notch7]

The cutter rotation determines direction of movement.

the cutter as it rotates needs to cut towards the fence, so pulls the fence in tight.

 

[foxhole]

I will book the ambulance.

 

[Keitai]

As the trimmer was around the other way I went from right to left. One hand on top and that was it. Very small drop in depth. As I brought it into wood it went a bit scuwith but good enough. These things dont kick back or fly into u do they?

 

[Keitai]

As the trimmer was around the other way I went from right to left. One hand o

 

[big-all]

with a baton you do NOT use the fence
the baton is clamped so the edge off the router base rubs against it
you could use the fence against the work peice edge but not both

 

[Deleted member 174758]

The guy in the shop showed me how to set fence up to the width of hinge and set depth then the sides I do with my own eye.

I have to say that I have never seen anyone do that on site. Mind you I've only been doing the job for four plus decades, despite that "most set fence to hinge width" comment. That won't always work and the fence will probably prove to at least as much a hindrance than a help. Presumably one of those muppets who can't chop out a recess by hand chisel alone - or maybe an electrician....

I'd also avoid anywhere that charges £260 plus for a Trend hinge jig because they really are charging top dollar (and presumably would also try selling you a plunge router as well because you do need one to use the Trend hinge jigs). In fact it's good practice to avoid taking advice from the sort of monkeys who work behind tool shop counters these days - the vast majority don't use tools themselves and many (particularly the youngsters) will say almost anything to make a sale. In fairness I must point out that they are not all like that - but unfortunstely far too many are

I've used a normal router before but a few safety questions. Is it always left to right due to clockwise rotation of blade. And unlike normal router there doesn't seem to be any handles on it so where do I hold it.

The rule is material to the left, cutter to the right, push the router away from you. That way you don't get an uncontrolable climb cut which can injure you. The grip on your trimmer is a one handed body grip, do mind where you put your fingers! Hinges generally only need a 2 to 3mm recess so can be done in 1 or 2 passes

 

[big-all]

its looks like the sawdust may be confusing me ??
what looks like a fence on a baton is actually the workpeice but not so clear at the buisiness end

 

[Keitai]

I have to say that I have never seen anyone do that on site. Mind you I've only been doing the job for four plus decades, despite that "most set fence to hinge width" comment. That won't always work and the fence will probably prove to at least as much a hindrance than a help. Presumably one of those muppets who can't chop out a recess by hand chisel alone - or maybe an electrician....

I'd also avoid anywhere that charges £260 plus for a Trend hinge jig because they really are charging top dollar (and presumably would also try selling you a plunge router as well because you do need one to use the Trend hinge jigs). In fact it's good practice to avoid taking advice from the sort of monkeys who work behind tool shop counters these days - the vast majority don't use tools themselves and many (particularly the youngsters) will say almost anything to make a sale. In fairness I must point out that they are not all like that - but unfortunstely far too many are


The rule is material to the left, cutter to the right, push the router away from you. That way you don't get an uncontrolable climb cut which can injure you. The grip on your trimmer is a one handed body grip, do mind where you put your fingers! Hinges generally only need a 2 to 3mm recess so can be done in 1 or 2 passes

I can imagine the router slipping too if I use a fence to cut the hinge out. Not a big deal on the sill drip channel but not good for hinge recesses. Would look messy.

 

[Keitai]

You don't do hinge recesses with a guide fence at all. When hanging one off doors I generally mark out the recesses (combi square, pencil then a sharp chisel to mark rhe edges) and hog away the bulk of the waste with a straight cutter, something like a 10 or 12mm diameter cutter (on a 1/4 in shank), don't go bigger than 12mm. These cutters must NOT be fitted with a guide bearing like the one you illustrate - that is a template routing bit and has a completely different function. The last bit of remaining wood into the corners and edges is cleaned out with a sharp chisel, ideally 25mm wide or wider, working to the lines that you originally cut with the chisel after you'd set out the hinge positions.

An alternative, which is only really worthwhile if you are doing multiple doors, is to make up a routing template and to use the router with a guide bush installed in the base. Youdo not need a plunge base to do this,although a larger sub base than the rather small one you are supplied with is advisable. As you don't yet understand fences or routing I am a tad reluctant to go through that process here at this moment

The roller guide fence is solely for use when trimming laminates and requires practice to become proficient. I would not recommend its' use for beginners

The straight fence is for forming edges (profiling, rebating, chsmfering, etc) using cutters which do not have a guide bearing mounted directly on the cutter. It can handle grooves, v-cuts, etc near to the edge, but the range is not very great

If you want to see the sort of range of cutters available Google "wealden tool" and mooch around their site

Ok. So basically take fence off and free hand the hinge recess? Ignore my question above , I hadn't read or understood this first explanation.

And do u recommend a jog other than Trend?

 

[Keitai]

its looks like the sawdust may be confusing me ??
what looks like a fence on a baton is actually the workpeice but not so clear at the buisiness end

So better to use a piece of baton for the fence not the one on the router

 

[big-all]

you cant use a baton for hinges
use off batons when well away from the edge
i use a trimmer with a plastic base and as its only1.5-2mm i do it free hand
i dont use a fence but finger rubbing the far edge to guide to hinge back BUT PLEASE DO NOT do this yourself as its highly dangerous